defiant1

Okay, in the process of replacing stabilizer bar bushings. I also purchased new stabilizer links as the rubber bushings were toast.

Loosely installed the stabilizer bar. Went to install the stabilizer links and the bolt that goes through the lower control arm and attaches to the stab bar end is hitting the upper ball joint stud?? There is almost an 1/2 inch that still needs to be inserted thru the holes.

So do I have the geometry wrong somewhere? Do I need to tightened down the stabilizer bar first? I'm stuck on something that looks simple to do but I am not sure what to do next.

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defiant1

If someone has a picture of the front suspension of the car I would appreciate it. I am going in circles and not gaining.

I installed the stab links and stab bar to frame loosely. But if try and tighten everything up I will hit the upper ball joint/steering knuckle with the stab links.

So I guess I need to see how everything is supposed to be lined up in relation to the stabilizer links.

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jensenracing77

i think mine hit the ball joint when i jack it up. i can't remember for sure. i know it hits something. it may be when i jack it up and turn the wheels. i will have to look but i will not be home till monday.

Yellowstatue

There is an identifying protrusion on the passenger end of the bar where the round hole is and the drivers end is smooth and round...just in case you have it in east to west.. This protrusion tells you what diameter the bar is as per the chassis manual chart...

dhoff

Make sure you are putting it together with weight on the wheels, I had the same trouble if it was jacked up with the wheels just hanging down.

defiant1

Thanks for clarifying the ID mark. I saw the chart in the manual but did not understand it until I read what you posted. And yes I have it installed correctly, don't get me wrong I tried it the other way just because I was second guessing myself and not getting anywhere.

I have not tried this yet. Makes sense. I guess the original stab links were so worn out that I had no trouble removing them with the car on jack stands. Having brand new parts is a different story. Thanks.

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defiant1

Okay, I used floor jacks to raise the control arms. This allowed me to get everything assembled.

But as you can see from the pictures the bolt looks to make contact with the steering knuckle or ball joint shaft. I compared the stock link with the new one and the stock one is shorter. I entertained using the old bolts but they would not allow me to install the poly bushings. I compared the spacers and they are the same size. So, the dimensions of the rubber vs. poly bushings are the only difference.

1. Does it look like I have everything assembled correctly?
2. If so, can I cut off 3/8" or so of bolt to allow for clearance?
3. Does the stabilizer move "strictly" with the up and down movement of the control arms? Or does it have a little more "play" up/down/left/right due to the give in the bushings on the sway bar and stab links?

BTW the pics show the stab links with the springs compressed. I do not have wheels and tires at the moment so I used floor jacks to raise the control arms.

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RAMBOW

Do you still have your original parts that you took off? Measure the metal tube the bolt is going through to make sure its the same size. A lot of these kits are universal, and not all of them are exactly the same.

You can trim that tube down 1/4"-1/2" or so- It will not affect the way the bar works- just be sure to trim drivers & pass side the same ammount- then you can cut the bolts so they clear.

I also know people who install the bolt upside down- with the nut under the lower control arm...

Nilsson

Bolts are to long plain and simple.

defiant1

The spacer is the same size. The bolt is 3/4" longer. This set is from NAPA and I double checked their online store and they list this part for a 64-74 Olds. I will see how the bolts fit reversed. Thanks

Okay, so I will either flip the bolt or cut it down. Thanks

defiant1

Finally, got it back together. Put the bolt in from the top. This required removing the sway bar to get the clearance need for the bolt. Reattached everything and cut off the excess threads on the bottom of control arm.

If I decide to remove the stab links in the future I will have to install a new set each time (due to cutting the bolt down). This is due to the fact the poly bushings do not have a lot of give and I will run out of bolt before I can get the nut on the end.

Of course I did not have to cut the bolt I suppose, but I figured the exposed end of it would take a beating from road debris and I would have to cut it to remove the stab link anyway (if required in the future).

I'm still not sure on how much clearance is needed from the end of the stab link to the upper ball joint. If someone could post a picture so I can compare it to mine, I would feel better about driving the car and not damaging anything.

"I hate the way I love it." This is a saying my brother uses and let me tell you working on this car is testing my patience every step of the way.

Thanks everyone for all their input.

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oldsonharmont

I bought that same set from NAPA and had the same issues with fitment on my '71 Cutlass. Luckily, I kept my original links and eventually found new neoprene bushings that were close to the size of the original rubber bushings.
If you still have your original parts, try looking for new bushings at your local parts store.

defiant1

Glad to hear I was not the only one with the fitment issue. I will see how these work, if I still have problems, I will check out the smaller bushings.

Thanks
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