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#1 (permalink) |
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Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 142
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Frame Off
Anyone have any pictures of how you removed the body from the frame? I want to be able to get the body high enough to roll the frame out.
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 337
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I made a wooden A frame (like a big sawhorse) to support the body at the firewall (no front end on the car body), wide enough at the side A supports so the frame with just wheel rims on the back to roll between them. I supported the back under the quarter pinch welds with wood on 6 gallon pails. Raise the whole thing up with floor jacks by the diff, front end etc while the frame is attached. Roll in the new/restored frame/diff etc, raise it up and bolt to the body. Then you can use floor jacks on the frame or diff, A arms etc. to raise it enough to remove the pails and wooden A frame.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Dallas TX
Posts: 1,563
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I C-clamped 2x8's to my lift under the pinch welds and lifted it up
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-Richard 66 Cutlass ragtop my way ![]() Keep watching your cotton candy coated TV while your world falls apart around you... |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 51
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I used my engine hoist in front, then placed jack stands under the firewall and floor area,then I moved to the back ''trunk" area and strapped a chain around the trunk lock,lifted it and placed my 4x4's and jacks under the back part of the wheel opening or the front part of the trunk area. Then I moved back to the front and rose the front some more until I could pull the frame out.I kept going back and forth to the front to rear etc. Until I could pull frame out. I also pulled the wheels off first "before pulling frame out.Hope this makes sense.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 142
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Quote:
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 52
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I used 4x6's built up to match the body then raised up a little at a time with a floor jack using jack stands on the ends of the 4x6 (out far enough to let the frame by) until high enough to drag the frame out. Look at my web site to see pics. http://69.205.125.5 Steve
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#7 (permalink) | |
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Gary
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Houston,Tx
Posts: 142
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Quote:
Last edited by gh5168; October 3rd, 2009 at 09:02 AM.. |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB
Posts: 1,167
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Quote:
I spent probably an hour going through your build and that was going quickly. Found some interesting stuff I can use for my FE2 suspension; I wasn't quite sure where the control arm braces attached. Seems like I have to drop my exhaust to put it in. Did you put the car back to it's original color? I noticed that you started with black and went to Saturn Gold? How long did this take you? I would kill for a work space like what you've got. Nice shop and really clean!! One question: How come you went with gold headrest and armrests? That's not a typical color change for the interior....
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Allan R |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: South River, New Jersey
Posts: 278
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I also used an engine hoist...
but when I moved the hoist to the trunk, I popped out those two drain plug hole covers and made a "spreader" bar from a 4 x 4 on bottom and one on top ran the chain up from the bottom through the top spreader bar and then to the hoist. I built a frame of 4 x 4 's to have the body resting on. now I have to put the body back on to repair the quarters, geez louise LOL....
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 52
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Quote:
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 169
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![]() ![]() ![]() Two floor jacks, an engine hoist, 4 jack stands, and 2 4x4s. Jacked the front and lifted the rear at the trunk latch. Two hoists work better. Or one and lift from the seat belt holes.
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