1970 Cutlass Supreme Coupe project
May 3rd, 2013, 05:08 AM
#1
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1970 Cutlass Supreme Coupe project
Here is my 1970 Olds Cutlass Supreme coupe that I am planning to sell. It is sitting in my garage, currently not running due to ignition system problems. It has 109K miles and was a grandma car before I got it. I added headers, dual exhaust, shocks, sway bars, rims, and tires. The body has mild rust and some parking lot creases and dents. The paint is orginal. Faded, cracked, surface rust, etc.
It has everything together, including A/C which was fully functional when it last ran. It has the high compression 350 4-bbl. I checked the engine block code, and it is the original engine. I started a changeover from points to electronic ignition (Pertronix in-distributor module) and just did not get something right in wiring or distributor position. The engine cranked but would not fire. That was three years ago, and the car has been sitting since then. The engine still turns, the carb gets fuel, plugs get spark, but it backfires through the carb when cranking and will not run.
Here are the details of its condition:
Mechanicals
- Engine ran strong with no smoke, no knocks, rattles, or lifter noise. Consistent compression on all cylinders. Needs the ignition work, which I think would be finding top dead center, reinstalling/wiring the points and distributor, and new spark plugs. Battery, belts, oil, fuel, and trans fluid would all need to be changed since it has been sitting for three years.
- Quadrajet carb, worked fine. I have rebuild kit for it, just has not been done. I have the original air cleaner, which is not in the pictures.
- Transmission is a TH350, which shifted smooth and strong without slips or thumps. Minor trans leak from the pan, just minor spots on the floor. I have a new pan and gasket, just not on the car.
- Headers and dual exhaust, was new when I got the car almost 9 years ago.
Steering/Suspension
- Drum brakes all around. They work fine, but they are just drums.
- Rear end is a peg leg limited slip. Nothing wrong with it, no noises or anything.
- New 15" rims and tires (< 1000 miles on them). I have four original 14" olds rally rims, with some but not all trim rings and center caps.
- Steering is excellent. No play, tracks straight and true, wheel is on center.
- New oversize sway bars front and rear. New shocks front and rear.
Interior
- All original and mostly excellent. Minor wear and tear. The only hack is a replacement stereo. I have the original AM radio that came with the car.
Body
- Vinyl roof was removed, there is surface rust. The rear sail panel under the back window has some rust from the former vinyl roof.
- Fenders and quarters have small dents or creases, and the fenders would need patch panels or other restoration on the bottom lips.
- Bumpers have minor dents or creases.
Frame and all the major underbody is solid, straight, and free of rust. I believe the car has been in North Carolina the majority of it's life, so it has not been subject to a corrosive environment.
Asking price $2500 OBO. Listed for sale locally, too. Car is in Charlotte, NC.
It has everything together, including A/C which was fully functional when it last ran. It has the high compression 350 4-bbl. I checked the engine block code, and it is the original engine. I started a changeover from points to electronic ignition (Pertronix in-distributor module) and just did not get something right in wiring or distributor position. The engine cranked but would not fire. That was three years ago, and the car has been sitting since then. The engine still turns, the carb gets fuel, plugs get spark, but it backfires through the carb when cranking and will not run.
Here are the details of its condition:
Mechanicals
- Engine ran strong with no smoke, no knocks, rattles, or lifter noise. Consistent compression on all cylinders. Needs the ignition work, which I think would be finding top dead center, reinstalling/wiring the points and distributor, and new spark plugs. Battery, belts, oil, fuel, and trans fluid would all need to be changed since it has been sitting for three years.
- Quadrajet carb, worked fine. I have rebuild kit for it, just has not been done. I have the original air cleaner, which is not in the pictures.
- Transmission is a TH350, which shifted smooth and strong without slips or thumps. Minor trans leak from the pan, just minor spots on the floor. I have a new pan and gasket, just not on the car.
- Headers and dual exhaust, was new when I got the car almost 9 years ago.
Steering/Suspension
- Drum brakes all around. They work fine, but they are just drums.
- Rear end is a peg leg limited slip. Nothing wrong with it, no noises or anything.
- New 15" rims and tires (< 1000 miles on them). I have four original 14" olds rally rims, with some but not all trim rings and center caps.
- Steering is excellent. No play, tracks straight and true, wheel is on center.
- New oversize sway bars front and rear. New shocks front and rear.
Interior
- All original and mostly excellent. Minor wear and tear. The only hack is a replacement stereo. I have the original AM radio that came with the car.
Body
- Vinyl roof was removed, there is surface rust. The rear sail panel under the back window has some rust from the former vinyl roof.
- Fenders and quarters have small dents or creases, and the fenders would need patch panels or other restoration on the bottom lips.
- Bumpers have minor dents or creases.
Frame and all the major underbody is solid, straight, and free of rust. I believe the car has been in North Carolina the majority of it's life, so it has not been subject to a corrosive environment.
Asking price $2500 OBO. Listed for sale locally, too. Car is in Charlotte, NC.
Last edited by MisterG; May 3rd, 2013 at 05:23 AM. Reason: Duh, add asking price and location.
May 3rd, 2013, 05:42 AM
#8
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May 3rd, 2013, 06:31 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,807
IDK if you are in a position to get it running but IMO you are leaving some money on the table selling it this way. Most prospective buyers will take it with a grain of salt when you tell them the engine runs fine with no smoke or sounds.
June 12th, 2013, 08:28 PM
#17
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Join Date: May 2013
Posts: 70
THE CAR IS ALIVE
All I have to say is that MisterG is a straight up guy. The issue was the distributor was 180 from where it was suppose to be. Also the insulators on the plug wires where not insulating(Lets just say it zapped me several times). Changed the plugs and timed it and ITS ALIVE. I will start a page here soon on the repair and rebuild.
Thanks again MisterG!
All I have to say is that MisterG is a straight up guy. The issue was the distributor was 180 from where it was suppose to be. Also the insulators on the plug wires where not insulating(Lets just say it zapped me several times). Changed the plugs and timed it and ITS ALIVE. I will start a page here soon on the repair and rebuild.
Thanks again MisterG!
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