'68 OLDS Cutlass S post, 455ci/th400 - $4,000 or B/O
September 1st, 2011, 05:34 AM
#1
'68 OLDS Cutlass S post, 455ci/th400 - $4,000 or B/O
SOLD!SOLD!SOLD!....going to good hands in pa..enjoy and thanks rob....Offerred for sale is my 1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S [Post]...
please remove this ad, thank you...
PRICE LOWERED TO $3,000!!!...
After reading some suggestions here on pricing cars, I've dropped $1k off my asking price...You couldn't buy or build just the engine that's in it for that money.......
Prefer to sell to someone in NJ/NYC area unless you want to purchase the car 'unseen' and will deal yourself with arranging a transport...
First I'm listing its current options/equipment, then a thorough description/history, followed by some more recent photos...
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S [post]:
- Olds 455 ci, 0.30 over on an earlier block...[approx. 12k miles on the mill]- hardened valve seats, hydraulic cam/lifters w/mild lope...
- Torker 2 intake...
- Edelbrock 780 cfm carb with vacuum secondaries and electric choke/low profile air filter...
- MSD Pro-Billet distributor/MSD coil...
- TH400r transmission w/shift kit...
- 10 bolt rear end with a very strong Eaton 8.5" posi unit and 3.73 gears...
- power brakes [front disc brakes]...
- power steering...
- Hooker headers...
- Dynomax dual exhaust...
- smaller diameter wood Grant GT steering wheel [I have the factory original steering wheel as well]...
- factory SSII mag wheels w/ P215/60R14 [m+s] BF Goodrich tires all around....
- recent Interstate battery and rebuilt alt, starter replaced 3 years ago...
- Sun-Pro tach /3 gauge pod [oil pressure/volt/water temp] under the dash....
- Original bucket seats/console...
- aftermarket in-dash cd player/radio...
Description:
[Car has a valid inspection until July 2012 and is still used by me as a daily driver until I'll take delivery of another ride within the week or so..I'm going to be as honest about the car's problems/shape as possible in the description, because I know how it always pisses me off to find an ad for a car which doesn't list most of the car's problems and only after one takes a ride to check the car in-person, one finds that the car is far worse than described by a seller...I want you to know what to expect rather than waste your time and you having to experience a disappointment after checking the car in person...what you see/read is what you get...]
I bought the car around February 2004 and ever since then I use it as my primary transportation...
The car was in great cosmetic and mechanical shape, however I've abused it quite a bit in the first 3-4 years I've owned it and since I'm a quadriplegic, the constant loading/unloading of my wheelchair has done some damage to the interior...I hate the idea of selling the car but due to my crippled status, I have to pay third parties for any work done to/on it and it now will be faster, easier and cheaper for me to just replace it with another older tin daily driver because the car needs bodywork, chasis/suspension work and most likely a new radiator soon because -as of a year or so ago - it started to overheat rather quickly at either highway speeds or if it idles for too long; it will however run all day long and at normal temp as long as the rpms are below 2.5k, and above idle...
The car has been driven in all weather thus its current cosmetic condition is rather poor...I'm including some recent photos [from late autumn last year and February of this year] and I'll add some new ones within a few days when I'll get a chance to go out and snap some [I'm mostly bedridden at present]... there are the typical bubbles/rusting around fender edges/rockers...
In January of 2006 I blew up the Olds 350 sb the car came with because I ran it at near wide open throttle for extended time on a highway and had no tach/gauges to monitor what's going on with oil pressure; at that time I also wasn't aware of Oldsmobile motors' tendencies to run dry on oil in bottom end at higher rpms for extended time, without oil restrictors installed in the heads... I always wanted a big block anyway so I've decided to splurge and replace the blown small block with a BB...I've searched on-line and found a dude selling built-up 'crate' Olds mills... I bought a 'crate' olds 455 bb from him which was hopped up to the tune of around 425 hp and over 550 ft/lbs...it cost me a lot [over $7k just for the engine], plus the cost of shipping and installation of course...
The new mill has been running great ever since and has big *****...One can easily peel out and spin tires at a traffic light simply by forgetting oneself and hitting the go pedal a bit too quickly..This absent mindedness earned me a few pullovers by the law...And if one wants to just keep standing on the gas, it will still chirp tires in all 3 gears, even now without having a major tune-up in a year or so...
Anyway, since swapping-in the 455 mill, I've added a Torker 2 intake, MSD Pro-Billet distributor, MSD coil, and although I've originally had a Holley 4160 carb [750 cfm] stuck on the intake, it went to carb hell within a year therefore I replaced it with an Edelbrock 780 cfm carb w/electric choke and vacuum secondaries...I also had a Sun-Pro tach and a 3 gauge pod installed to keep abreast of engine status...
In early summer of 2006, my foot got stuck on the gas pedal and I rear ended some newer 'plastic-fantastic' car at a traffic light... Since then I've been driving with a caved-in nose/bumper and a dented left fender, which - due to this damage - shifted backwards slightly and thus impedes the driver's door from opening the last few inches...I've also acquired a bunch of scrapes from some a-holes in parking lots; some pretty significant...I used large band-aids to 'cover' up the scratches for laughs since I couldn't afford the bodywork [I live off meager disability income]...The right-rear side marker light is missing, it's been 'shaved off' by some douche at a hospital parking lot who scraped the crap out of my rear right fender....
The interior is in a rather poor shape as well...Dash is cracked from sun, side/door panels are dirty and scuffed....I currently have hand-controls installed but these were installed without any mods to the dash/column and once the car's sale is made, they can be uninstalled within a couple of minutes...
In 2008 or 2009 - as I drove to the Rumblers CC annual bash in Brooklyn - I hit a giant pot hole in NYC and broke the front sway-bar mount...I still drive it with the sway bar hanging off it a bit because a local gas-station mechanic told me I'll need to have the frame welded up a bit at the place where the sway-bar mounts to...I know no one locally who could do that for me...The ride is a bit looser without the working front sway bar but only really noticable in sharp corners when the car leans more than it used to...However, the whole suspension has become more squirelly since i bought the car [was very nice and firm then] so it could use a full refreshing...The car could use an alignment as well since the last one I had done to it was way back, a few months after swapping-in the 455 into it...It doesn't bother me while i drive but a rebuilt supension - and even just the alignment - WOULD make a huge improvement in car's handling....
The engine/transmission run strong and have many thousands of miles left on the clock since - due to my declining health - i drive it seldom in the past several years and put less than 12k miles on the 455 mill; that's nothing for these big blocks and makes the engine nearly still new...however, the sheer appearance of it, and engine compartment over all, could use a bit of refreshing as it's been parked outside in all-weather conditions and has never once been cleaned/detailed - i simply can't reach beyond the fender wells under the hood from my wheelchair....
The car runs happily on 91 octane pump gas...I always put 92-93 octane in it however...I've always used only non-synthetic oil/fluids....The tranny up/down-shifts hard and firm as it should with the shift kit...The tires have v/good tread & are still the same ones I bought the car with back in 2004, that alone can tell you how little miles I've put on the car...Regrettably, the first couple of years after buying it, I ran it hard and fast - hence the blown 350 - so it does show cosmetically... There are no leaks whatsoever, car starts without problems even after sitting parked for several weeks, whether it's in 100 degrees or minus 20 degrees weather...
The biggest problem is overheating...the temp gets rather quickly to 230 degrees if i run above 3k rpm, or idle it for 20-30 minutes - and it will keep climbing unless I'll slo down to 2.5k rpm or lower; after that it will turn back to 210-220....Hence I avoid driving on highways for more than half hour or so, and choose local roads instead where speed limits are 40-45 mph...It will run all day at around 40 mph without going over 220 degrees....Either a radiator needs a fix/replacement or...I don't know what....
Ever since I had the 455 put into the car, it always ran on a hot side at highway speeds and I think I even asked for advice on this forum, but I could still drive for an hour or a couple on highways as long as I didn't go over 3.4k rpm [about 65-68 mph], now I can't even do that for more than a half-hour or so....Someone even suggested once that it might be incorrectly installed bearings but in time, this problem was ruled out and I simply learned to live with it and didn'tt drive the car hard on highways during warm temperatures outside...I'm now suspecting that the '4-4-2 spec' h/d repro radiator I've had swapped into the car at the time that the 455 mill was installed, had a defect and never worked correctly and recently it has only gotten worse...Wanted to replace it with an aluminium rad but never found the funds for it...
continued below.....
please remove this ad, thank you...
PRICE LOWERED TO $3,000!!!...
After reading some suggestions here on pricing cars, I've dropped $1k off my asking price...You couldn't buy or build just the engine that's in it for that money.......
Prefer to sell to someone in NJ/NYC area unless you want to purchase the car 'unseen' and will deal yourself with arranging a transport...
First I'm listing its current options/equipment, then a thorough description/history, followed by some more recent photos...
1968 Oldsmobile Cutlass S [post]:
- Olds 455 ci, 0.30 over on an earlier block...[approx. 12k miles on the mill]- hardened valve seats, hydraulic cam/lifters w/mild lope...
- Torker 2 intake...
- Edelbrock 780 cfm carb with vacuum secondaries and electric choke/low profile air filter...
- MSD Pro-Billet distributor/MSD coil...
- TH400r transmission w/shift kit...
- 10 bolt rear end with a very strong Eaton 8.5" posi unit and 3.73 gears...
- power brakes [front disc brakes]...
- power steering...
- Hooker headers...
- Dynomax dual exhaust...
- smaller diameter wood Grant GT steering wheel [I have the factory original steering wheel as well]...
- factory SSII mag wheels w/ P215/60R14 [m+s] BF Goodrich tires all around....
- recent Interstate battery and rebuilt alt, starter replaced 3 years ago...
- Sun-Pro tach /3 gauge pod [oil pressure/volt/water temp] under the dash....
- Original bucket seats/console...
- aftermarket in-dash cd player/radio...
Description:
[Car has a valid inspection until July 2012 and is still used by me as a daily driver until I'll take delivery of another ride within the week or so..I'm going to be as honest about the car's problems/shape as possible in the description, because I know how it always pisses me off to find an ad for a car which doesn't list most of the car's problems and only after one takes a ride to check the car in-person, one finds that the car is far worse than described by a seller...I want you to know what to expect rather than waste your time and you having to experience a disappointment after checking the car in person...what you see/read is what you get...]
I bought the car around February 2004 and ever since then I use it as my primary transportation...
The car was in great cosmetic and mechanical shape, however I've abused it quite a bit in the first 3-4 years I've owned it and since I'm a quadriplegic, the constant loading/unloading of my wheelchair has done some damage to the interior...I hate the idea of selling the car but due to my crippled status, I have to pay third parties for any work done to/on it and it now will be faster, easier and cheaper for me to just replace it with another older tin daily driver because the car needs bodywork, chasis/suspension work and most likely a new radiator soon because -as of a year or so ago - it started to overheat rather quickly at either highway speeds or if it idles for too long; it will however run all day long and at normal temp as long as the rpms are below 2.5k, and above idle...
The car has been driven in all weather thus its current cosmetic condition is rather poor...I'm including some recent photos [from late autumn last year and February of this year] and I'll add some new ones within a few days when I'll get a chance to go out and snap some [I'm mostly bedridden at present]... there are the typical bubbles/rusting around fender edges/rockers...
In January of 2006 I blew up the Olds 350 sb the car came with because I ran it at near wide open throttle for extended time on a highway and had no tach/gauges to monitor what's going on with oil pressure; at that time I also wasn't aware of Oldsmobile motors' tendencies to run dry on oil in bottom end at higher rpms for extended time, without oil restrictors installed in the heads... I always wanted a big block anyway so I've decided to splurge and replace the blown small block with a BB...I've searched on-line and found a dude selling built-up 'crate' Olds mills... I bought a 'crate' olds 455 bb from him which was hopped up to the tune of around 425 hp and over 550 ft/lbs...it cost me a lot [over $7k just for the engine], plus the cost of shipping and installation of course...
The new mill has been running great ever since and has big *****...One can easily peel out and spin tires at a traffic light simply by forgetting oneself and hitting the go pedal a bit too quickly..This absent mindedness earned me a few pullovers by the law...And if one wants to just keep standing on the gas, it will still chirp tires in all 3 gears, even now without having a major tune-up in a year or so...
Anyway, since swapping-in the 455 mill, I've added a Torker 2 intake, MSD Pro-Billet distributor, MSD coil, and although I've originally had a Holley 4160 carb [750 cfm] stuck on the intake, it went to carb hell within a year therefore I replaced it with an Edelbrock 780 cfm carb w/electric choke and vacuum secondaries...I also had a Sun-Pro tach and a 3 gauge pod installed to keep abreast of engine status...
In early summer of 2006, my foot got stuck on the gas pedal and I rear ended some newer 'plastic-fantastic' car at a traffic light... Since then I've been driving with a caved-in nose/bumper and a dented left fender, which - due to this damage - shifted backwards slightly and thus impedes the driver's door from opening the last few inches...I've also acquired a bunch of scrapes from some a-holes in parking lots; some pretty significant...I used large band-aids to 'cover' up the scratches for laughs since I couldn't afford the bodywork [I live off meager disability income]...The right-rear side marker light is missing, it's been 'shaved off' by some douche at a hospital parking lot who scraped the crap out of my rear right fender....
The interior is in a rather poor shape as well...Dash is cracked from sun, side/door panels are dirty and scuffed....I currently have hand-controls installed but these were installed without any mods to the dash/column and once the car's sale is made, they can be uninstalled within a couple of minutes...
In 2008 or 2009 - as I drove to the Rumblers CC annual bash in Brooklyn - I hit a giant pot hole in NYC and broke the front sway-bar mount...I still drive it with the sway bar hanging off it a bit because a local gas-station mechanic told me I'll need to have the frame welded up a bit at the place where the sway-bar mounts to...I know no one locally who could do that for me...The ride is a bit looser without the working front sway bar but only really noticable in sharp corners when the car leans more than it used to...However, the whole suspension has become more squirelly since i bought the car [was very nice and firm then] so it could use a full refreshing...The car could use an alignment as well since the last one I had done to it was way back, a few months after swapping-in the 455 into it...It doesn't bother me while i drive but a rebuilt supension - and even just the alignment - WOULD make a huge improvement in car's handling....
The engine/transmission run strong and have many thousands of miles left on the clock since - due to my declining health - i drive it seldom in the past several years and put less than 12k miles on the 455 mill; that's nothing for these big blocks and makes the engine nearly still new...however, the sheer appearance of it, and engine compartment over all, could use a bit of refreshing as it's been parked outside in all-weather conditions and has never once been cleaned/detailed - i simply can't reach beyond the fender wells under the hood from my wheelchair....
The car runs happily on 91 octane pump gas...I always put 92-93 octane in it however...I've always used only non-synthetic oil/fluids....The tranny up/down-shifts hard and firm as it should with the shift kit...The tires have v/good tread & are still the same ones I bought the car with back in 2004, that alone can tell you how little miles I've put on the car...Regrettably, the first couple of years after buying it, I ran it hard and fast - hence the blown 350 - so it does show cosmetically... There are no leaks whatsoever, car starts without problems even after sitting parked for several weeks, whether it's in 100 degrees or minus 20 degrees weather...
The biggest problem is overheating...the temp gets rather quickly to 230 degrees if i run above 3k rpm, or idle it for 20-30 minutes - and it will keep climbing unless I'll slo down to 2.5k rpm or lower; after that it will turn back to 210-220....Hence I avoid driving on highways for more than half hour or so, and choose local roads instead where speed limits are 40-45 mph...It will run all day at around 40 mph without going over 220 degrees....Either a radiator needs a fix/replacement or...I don't know what....
Ever since I had the 455 put into the car, it always ran on a hot side at highway speeds and I think I even asked for advice on this forum, but I could still drive for an hour or a couple on highways as long as I didn't go over 3.4k rpm [about 65-68 mph], now I can't even do that for more than a half-hour or so....Someone even suggested once that it might be incorrectly installed bearings but in time, this problem was ruled out and I simply learned to live with it and didn'tt drive the car hard on highways during warm temperatures outside...I'm now suspecting that the '4-4-2 spec' h/d repro radiator I've had swapped into the car at the time that the 455 mill was installed, had a defect and never worked correctly and recently it has only gotten worse...Wanted to replace it with an aluminium rad but never found the funds for it...
continued below.....
Last edited by skibone; October 11th, 2011 at 03:41 PM. Reason: missed some key strokes and mis-spelled a few words...
September 1st, 2011, 05:35 AM
#2
continued from above....
What works :
- lights/high-beams/tail lights/turnsignals/brake lights...front and rear...
- dash/gauge illuminating lights, indicators, console gear indicator lights, interior lamp....
- horn, but the horn button popped off the grant's wheel sometime ago and since i couldn't find the spring which goes underneath it, i just left it off for the rough 'rod' look..i just touch the wires to the electrical contact to beep the horn now....
- wipers...
- e-brake....
- fuel level gauge...although a few times lately it stuck at the next lowest to the 'E' bar which made me ran out of gas once...I now fill it up once it gets to 1/4 full just to be safe...
What doesn't :
- speedo...the needle has kind of fallen off it and it was like that when i purchased the car...
- back up lights...same as above, never worked since I have it...
- front sway bar [already explained the problem elsewhere above]...
- weatherstripping is missing at both front windows, and tired everywhere else....
- lighter, and for some reason the ashtray door [the ash tray's missing] don't close all the way flush with the dash...
- console key lock...but the console catch/button work fine and it shuts/open completely...just doesn't lock...
- the gas cap can leak at hard acceleration unless screwed on very tightly/straight...
- the interior is very tired, as is the carpet, and seats/armrest have some foam missing at corners...driver's seat is ripped, and right side of the rear seat is as well plus it's missing a large chunk of foam, where the brake handle of my wheelchair always digs into...i simply use cheap seat covers on front seats...i don't muchh care for how the interior looks as i'm a hot rodder at heart hehehe...Hell, my '36 Stude coupe street rod doesn't even HAVE any door panels at all, the door's steel framework is all exposed and I just drive it like that....... But complete interior replacement reproduction kits are widely available if one wants to restore it....
I can't think of anything else to add at this time about the car's info/condition so if you're still interested, please contact me to schedule an in-person drive and/or purchase...I don't want to list my phone # on a public forum but if ya need to call to discuss anything further regardiing this car, send me a private message and I'll reply with my home phone number...
Jerzy...
};->
What works :
- lights/high-beams/tail lights/turnsignals/brake lights...front and rear...
- dash/gauge illuminating lights, indicators, console gear indicator lights, interior lamp....
- horn, but the horn button popped off the grant's wheel sometime ago and since i couldn't find the spring which goes underneath it, i just left it off for the rough 'rod' look..i just touch the wires to the electrical contact to beep the horn now....
- wipers...
- e-brake....
- fuel level gauge...although a few times lately it stuck at the next lowest to the 'E' bar which made me ran out of gas once...I now fill it up once it gets to 1/4 full just to be safe...
What doesn't :
- speedo...the needle has kind of fallen off it and it was like that when i purchased the car...
- back up lights...same as above, never worked since I have it...
- front sway bar [already explained the problem elsewhere above]...
- weatherstripping is missing at both front windows, and tired everywhere else....
- lighter, and for some reason the ashtray door [the ash tray's missing] don't close all the way flush with the dash...
- console key lock...but the console catch/button work fine and it shuts/open completely...just doesn't lock...
- the gas cap can leak at hard acceleration unless screwed on very tightly/straight...
- the interior is very tired, as is the carpet, and seats/armrest have some foam missing at corners...driver's seat is ripped, and right side of the rear seat is as well plus it's missing a large chunk of foam, where the brake handle of my wheelchair always digs into...i simply use cheap seat covers on front seats...i don't muchh care for how the interior looks as i'm a hot rodder at heart hehehe...Hell, my '36 Stude coupe street rod doesn't even HAVE any door panels at all, the door's steel framework is all exposed and I just drive it like that....... But complete interior replacement reproduction kits are widely available if one wants to restore it....
I can't think of anything else to add at this time about the car's info/condition so if you're still interested, please contact me to schedule an in-person drive and/or purchase...I don't want to list my phone # on a public forum but if ya need to call to discuss anything further regardiing this car, send me a private message and I'll reply with my home phone number...
Jerzy...
};->
Last edited by skibone; September 1st, 2011 at 06:48 AM.
September 1st, 2011, 05:45 AM
#3
and some more photos....i'll be adding more - new ones - within the next few days as soon as i can get out of my apartment and snap some....
the last one in this batch is of the car as it looked about half a year after i bought it, it can look like this again or better....
the last one in this batch is of the car as it looked about half a year after i bought it, it can look like this again or better....
Last edited by skibone; September 1st, 2011 at 06:46 AM.
September 1st, 2011, 06:06 AM
#4
a few more pics....the last one here is from 2004 to show what it looked like before i abused it...i actually like the painted bumpers and body-paint keyed ssII mags on the '68 better than chrome bumpers and any aftermarket mag wheels...
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September 1st, 2011, 09:08 AM
#5
new lowered price, it's now $3k, after I've read suggestions on pricing cars for sale in current economy.........the engine itself is still worth more than that and this is a bucket seats/console shift cutlass, with rare 'post' body...the one more desirable for building a hopped-up ride for strip/street...
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September 6th, 2011, 11:50 PM
#7
yeah thanks...
but apparently this is not a good place to sell an oldsmobile hehe...looks like most here have little funds as well and/or lack the space for more cars like i do.....if it wasn't for lack of parking i'd keep the cutlass until i can find funds, someone to work on it, and fenders/bumper, etc....but i'm only allotted a single parking space in front of my apartment and i garage my stude at my folks' place already...
btw, at $3k it's no longer an 'asking price', it's firm...it was at 4k but anything under 3 would be next to giving my car/mill away....hell, the car's inspected and can drive on daily basis for a very long time, i still get thumbs up at traffic lights every time i go out...and it can still beat most traffic light challengers.......
if no sale soon i'll just cover it and park it at my folks' driveway...
i think i should start posting this ad on other sites though.............
the deal with my next daily driver [a beautiful '64 galaxie for only $11k] fell through as the dude in ga sold it before i had a chance to even send him a deposit on it....he got a local offer for his asking price and i had no way to send him a money transfer so quickly....so i'm back in the market for a '69 or older driver in exc. cosmetic/mechanical condition with ps, pb and a/c....but i need it fast because i can't drive without a/c in anything above 70 degrees [i can't sweat so i get heatstrokes at the drop of a hat] and i have to make several doctor/hospital appointments asap....i do have a couple other potential buys so if i can't sell the cutlass soon i'll be covering it up for the coming winter because i'll need my parking space for the new wheels....
anyway, i'm in pretty bad shape and can't yet get out of bed into my wheelchair [likely some badly torn tendons/ligaments in my hand hence i can't even lift my body up from bed] so no new photos yet....i hope to be able to transfer into my 'chair by this weekend though....once i'm able to, i'll also ask the local gas station mechanic to put the cutlass on the lift and snap some chassis photos....
btw, i didn't get a notice about this reply to my posts, nor about a new priv. mssg for some reason despite haviing checked the 'instant e-mail notification' in my account settings...i logged onto here for the first time tonight since posting and found new reply/mssg to my astonishment so it seems i have to log onto here more often to check for any potential messages/replies....
Last edited by skibone; September 7th, 2011 at 12:25 AM.
September 9th, 2011, 02:50 AM
#9
whenever you're ready...i might still be flexible for a 100 bucks or so on the price if the sale can happen soon...
my hand's a little better so i should be able to get in my wheelchair/car within a day or two...thus i hope to have some new pix of car/chasis by sunday evening btw...
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my hand's a little better so i should be able to get in my wheelchair/car within a day or two...thus i hope to have some new pix of car/chasis by sunday evening btw...
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Last edited by skibone; September 9th, 2011 at 02:55 AM.
October 8th, 2011, 08:42 AM
#12
yes it's still for sale...i neglected to follow up with pix and just with trying to sell it as other crap came in waves since my last post here....i apologize for silence on my end here...health's been in the pits, i barely have energy/time to keep up with just daily existence and on top of this i've been in a process of purchasing/financing my 'new' ride...it's a full kustom built last year by a respected kustomizer/builder/artist on a scene today and i got an unbelievable deal on it...just need to convert it to power steering, car is like new...now i need my parking space and the $3k will just about cover the cost of a p/s kit and instal...
i sent ya a pm and my own phone#, give me a call anytime at the time that's best for you, i'm mostly stuck in bed so i'm always home and awake most of the time...
i sent ya a pm and my own phone#, give me a call anytime at the time that's best for you, i'm mostly stuck in bed so i'm always home and awake most of the time...
October 11th, 2011, 11:09 PM
#15
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: pittsburgh,pa
Posts: 97
Thanks again Skibone I got back at 12:00,I should have taking your advice an stayed at my families house in NYC.my cousin that was with me doesn't drive lol I never driven that long in my life.I have much respect for truckers.
October 12th, 2011, 04:22 AM
#16
it's been a pleasure rob and i applaud your dedication...hell, the man drove over 8 hours each way to buy this cutlass..loves oldsmobiles and has the welding skills but still a bit short on experience owning one...i trust ya'll get a lot of good help and advice here on this forum rob and i think there's a guy who has at least one badass olds near ya in erie, pa [507olds] who would be a huge asset to be well acquainted with hehe...
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rob [pgh cutlass] is a kool cat and a humble guy with great passion for old tin so take it easy on the guy here if he might ask a question which might seem a too basic of one to some olds-lifers here on 'co' forum...and i'm always available if ya'll need any info/advice on it, but i myself have to rely on skills of others due to my circumstances and it always is best to make good with local people who are experienced in building/running a particular car as they'll help ya out for less than a speed shop will charge you for any work and the experience/knowledge ya can gleam off these guys is priceless and will serve ya well in becoming knowledgable yourself...
for now, just remember to never let the temp go over 230 degrees until ya'll get that overheating issue taken care of..watch the gauge closely when ya drive and if it hits 230, pull over and let it cool down for 15-30 minutes...once ya'll get rid of that overheating issue this car will be bloody addictive to drive man...been there done that and can never get enough...will miss this until i'll get another obb someday -hello my name's jerzy and i'm a 455-holic...
when this car hits the sweet spot which starts around 2.5k-2.8k rpm all the way to around 4.5k [that torker 2 intake really wakes the 455 up and 3.73 gearing help it stay on its tiptoes yet keep it civil enough for a street daily driver], ya just want to keep it wound up there and never slow down, the response and torque/hp/gearing combo is glorious in that midrange if ya really enjoy driving...ya'll have it all the way up to about 4,700 rpm where it finally starts to top out and wane, but then you're already getting close to the redline anyway and ya don't want to redline these rocket mills unless ya have oil restrictors in the heads...and the raw, stump pulling torque in the low range is also a great feeling as it slams ya against the seat and those p245r60s shreek in protest hehe...
and now we neeed to close/freeze this thread as the car's sold, lest we get banned for redundant posts...
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rob [pgh cutlass] is a kool cat and a humble guy with great passion for old tin so take it easy on the guy here if he might ask a question which might seem a too basic of one to some olds-lifers here on 'co' forum...and i'm always available if ya'll need any info/advice on it, but i myself have to rely on skills of others due to my circumstances and it always is best to make good with local people who are experienced in building/running a particular car as they'll help ya out for less than a speed shop will charge you for any work and the experience/knowledge ya can gleam off these guys is priceless and will serve ya well in becoming knowledgable yourself...
for now, just remember to never let the temp go over 230 degrees until ya'll get that overheating issue taken care of..watch the gauge closely when ya drive and if it hits 230, pull over and let it cool down for 15-30 minutes...once ya'll get rid of that overheating issue this car will be bloody addictive to drive man...been there done that and can never get enough...will miss this until i'll get another obb someday -hello my name's jerzy and i'm a 455-holic...
when this car hits the sweet spot which starts around 2.5k-2.8k rpm all the way to around 4.5k [that torker 2 intake really wakes the 455 up and 3.73 gearing help it stay on its tiptoes yet keep it civil enough for a street daily driver], ya just want to keep it wound up there and never slow down, the response and torque/hp/gearing combo is glorious in that midrange if ya really enjoy driving...ya'll have it all the way up to about 4,700 rpm where it finally starts to top out and wane, but then you're already getting close to the redline anyway and ya don't want to redline these rocket mills unless ya have oil restrictors in the heads...and the raw, stump pulling torque in the low range is also a great feeling as it slams ya against the seat and those p245r60s shreek in protest hehe...
and now we neeed to close/freeze this thread as the car's sold, lest we get banned for redundant posts...
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Last edited by skibone; October 12th, 2011 at 04:41 AM.
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