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Old February 22nd, 2012, 07:25 PM   #1
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Karls Korner
57 Olds master cylinder rebuild

My '57 98 Holiday coupe has the early car Bendix type master cylinder and power brake booster. Attached are a few photos of the final disassembly of the master cylinder. The compensating valve allows brake fluid to pass from the reservoir to the hydraulic cylinder. I then removed the residual check valve.

A NOTE ON PENETRATING OIL By using equal parts of automatic transmission fluid and acetone as a penetrating oil, the steel valve parts loosened with little effort. The only draw back to this is the acetone will evaporate if not stored in a sealed container. Use care as acetone will melt plastics and remove paint.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Compensating Valve Disassembly.jpg (52.9 KB, 67 views)
File Type: jpg Removing Residual Check Valve.jpg (65.0 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Residual Check Valve Disassembly.jpg (56.3 KB, 53 views)
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 07:29 PM   #2
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Cleaning up master cylinder

By ising various small wire brushes in my drill press I am able to clean up the bores in the master cylinder.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Cleaning Hydraulic Plunger Seal Bore.jpg (72.6 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg Cleaning Residual Valve Seat floor.jpg (55.5 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg Cleaning Compensating Valve Seat.jpg (63.1 KB, 34 views)
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Old February 22nd, 2012, 07:42 PM   #3
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Clearing tapped holes

By using a 1/4-20 tap I cleared out the three master cylinder to brake booster attaching holes. A 10-24 tap was used on the master cylinder reservior cover holes. I used a bottoming tap after the regular starting tap. Since the booster attaching bolts were messed up, I will replace them with new 1/4 -20 bolts, as long as possible with flat and lock washers.

The third photo shows the resedual check valve passage from inside the master cylinder. I used an oil can to squirt some penetrating oil mixture into this passage to free the hyrdaulic outlet fitting from the master cylinder.

I will post reassembly photos as I progress with the rebuild.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg DSC01233.jpg (45.4 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Tapping 10-24 Cover holes.jpg (62.7 KB, 32 views)
File Type: jpg Hydraulic Passage.jpg (55.1 KB, 31 views)
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 04:20 AM   #4
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We are standing by with baited breath...
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'57 98 HC; '68 442 M20; '68 442 M21; '68 W30; '68 Vista et al; '81 -'84 Regency et al; '96,'98,'99 Aurora; 03 Bravada..Ignition ON
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Old February 23rd, 2012, 06:55 PM   #5
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Don't hold your breath too long

I got a major flu bug and won't be back at it until Sunday at best. I will post my progress. Also, had to buy a repro '56 Olds chassis manual as the '57 manual only covers the Delco- Moraine units. The same holds true with the fuel pumps; only later car fuel pumps are covered the ones without the glass sediment bowl.
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Old February 24th, 2012, 04:00 AM   #6
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I hear you...just got over a cold that I had for thirteen days...usually takes about three or four....they're sending out bugs that are very buff, just like Arnold...
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Old February 24th, 2012, 04:32 PM   #7
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Hi,

Did we talk awhile back? Are you my good buddy John's friend?
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Old February 25th, 2012, 04:10 AM   #8
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Yes...the one with the scoops!!
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Old February 26th, 2012, 06:49 PM   #9
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Re-assembly Process on Master Cylinder

Before the re-assembly begins, the 1957 and 1956 Oldsmobile Chassis manuals and a rebuild kit from Fusick Automotive were obtained. A holding stand was fabricated to hold the master cylinder/power booster assembly in it's correct position for final inspection and testing before installing the unit in the car.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Fusick Bendix Kit Red b.jpg (54.9 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Chassis Manuals Red.jpg (66.0 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Master Cylinder & Booster on Stand.jpg (50.8 KB, 34 views)
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Old February 26th, 2012, 06:55 PM   #10
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Parts cleaned, painted and ready to install

Here are some of the master cylinder and power booster parts that have been cleaned and in some cases, painted. Two of the photos also show the old hydraulic plunger seals, washers and snap ring in their correct order of assembly. The rebuild kit has replacements for most of these parts.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Master Cylinder & Power Booster Parts.jpg (57.9 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg Hydraulic Plunger Parts a.jpg (48.6 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Hydraulic Plunger Parts b.jpg (51.2 KB, 26 views)
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Old March 4th, 2012, 07:43 PM   #11
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Installing Master Cylinder Parts

The first parts to install is the Hydraulic Plunger assembly. Lubricate the seals with brake fluid and carefully work seal into the bore.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Rebuild Kit.jpg (50.2 KB, 22 views)
File Type: jpg New Hyrdaulic Plunger Parts b.jpg (55.9 KB, 25 views)
File Type: jpg Installing Plunger.jpg (47.1 KB, 21 views)
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Old March 4th, 2012, 07:52 PM   #12
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Next step

After the plunger assembly is in place, the tru arc ring is installed. Make sure it is completely in the ring groove. The plunger seal is placed in the bore next.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Installing Tru Arc Ring.jpg (63.0 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Tru Arc Ring In Place.jpg (66.7 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Installing Seal.jpg (60.2 KB, 15 views)
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Old March 4th, 2012, 08:03 PM   #13
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Next Step

When the plunger seal is seated the O ring and master cylinder to booster gasket are placed on the master cylinder flange.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Seal in Place.jpg (68.9 KB, 11 views)
File Type: jpg O Ring in Place.jpg (62.7 KB, 10 views)
File Type: jpg Gasket & O Ring in place.jpg (48.2 KB, 9 views)
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Old March 4th, 2012, 08:17 PM   #14
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Installing Residual Valve & Compensating Valve Parts

The residual valve parts are installed next. Use brake fluid on the seal and carefully make sure the spring and rubber valve is centered with the nut. The Compensating valve parts are assembled and installed next. Tighten the two nuts snug, but do not over tighten them.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg New Residual Valve Parts.jpg (46.7 KB, 21 views)
File Type: jpg New Compensating Valve Parts.jpg (47.0 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg Installing Compensating Valve.jpg (61.0 KB, 22 views)
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Old March 4th, 2012, 08:25 PM   #15
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Installing the Reservior Cover & Cylinder to the Booster

With a new gasket the reservior cover is installed with the six screws. Snug up the screws evenly. Three new 1/4 - 20 hex head screws, flat and lock washers are used to install the master cylinder to the booster can. I used screws 3/4 of an inch long since I re-tapped the holes in the master cylinder with a bottoming tap earlier. A light smear of Anti-Seize is applied to the threads.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Resrivior Cover & New Gasket.jpg (48.3 KB, 18 views)
File Type: jpg Installing Master Cylinder.jpg (52.7 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg Master Cylinder Bolts.jpg (48.0 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg Master Cylinder & Booster.jpg (51.0 KB, 20 views)

Last edited by karlskorner; March 4th, 2012 at 08:38 PM. Reason: misspelled word
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Old March 4th, 2012, 08:33 PM   #16
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Installing the Piston Return Spring

Now the piston return spring, return spring plate and "C" washer are installed. I used a telescoping magnet to hold the "C" washer and slip it in place. Trying to get both hands in the booster can while holding the spring back can be difficult. The magnet made the job easier.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Piston Return Spring Parts.jpg (48.6 KB, 15 views)
File Type: jpg Installing Piston Return Spring.jpg (58.8 KB, 16 views)
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Old April 14th, 2012, 09:26 AM   #17
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YES NO Also yes NOPE YES...but only Movies
nice work .....i'll more than likely be doing this this summer Thanks....Pics help me a lot
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Old July 23rd, 2012, 12:34 PM   #18
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struggling with bleeding on Treadle Vac

Hi,
Thanks a lot for the Manual, helped me a lot!!
But now, Im struggling with bleeding. Tried to bleed just the Power Brake Hose (Master to junction) on Junction Block A Fig. 7-8 (Page 86-1954 Shop Manual), but there is not even air coming out.
Can this Junction be clogged?
I can unscrew the lower screw on the Junction Im not sure about the upper, is quite tight and I wouldnt mess up this thing. Maybe I have to loosen the upper screw for bleeding and the lower is just a kind of dirt protection?

Followed the instructions from the 1954 Shop Manual Engine not running (Page 95)
I do have pressure on the Brake Hose by the Hydraulic Master Cylinder (loosened it under pressure and Fluid splashed out), but just a few drops of Fluid coming out on the other side (tried to bleed the Hose by the Junction, but there is not enough space to do it proper).
My thought is to take the Junction out for checking, but I would appreciate if anybody knows something else.

Thanks for your help and greetings from Bavaria,
Monaco
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File Type: jpg Junction Block A Fig 7-8 001.JPG (196.8 KB, 28 views)
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Old July 24th, 2012, 08:24 AM   #19
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Sometimes it's better to think befor writing, sorry for the question.
The upper screw is the bleeding one, worked perfectly got the air out.
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Old July 24th, 2012, 08:24 AM
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