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I am going to be installing a hydroboost braking assembly in conjunction with a disc brake upgrade on my 57 Super 88. Does anyone know the output pressure of the stock power steering pump? I want to make sure I match operating pressures for the pump and the hydroboost assembly. Thank you
interested in your project... Im looking at the 1957 oldsmobile shop manual.:
page 5-12, oil pressure test.. 3. If the max oil pressure is less that 800 pis it indicates trouble in pump...
on the low side 30-50 pis.
hopping that helps.. keep posting on this hydroboost too
I ordered the front disc brake conversion brackets from www.discbrakemike.com. He personally owns a 1957 Olds and makes several conversion kits for Olds & Buicks. He recommended GM calipers designed for use on a 69 Eldorado. Large piston and very reasonably priced as compared to say Wilwood. I found the two calipers, new with pads on E-Bay for $119 + shipping. These are the 1.28" thick units. DiscBrakeMike supplies the rotors, bearings, seals, brackets for $295 + shipping. I have removed the all the heating duct off the firewall of my 57. I'm making a new plate to basically cover the entire firewall. It will clean up the look of the engine compartment. I'm going to install an aftermarket HVAC unit. I'm planning to get rid of the large OEM power steering unit and replace it with a chrome GM A-Can style unit. I just ordered the pump but I'll need to figure out the mounting brackets after it arrives. If anyone has info on the brackets to bolt to a 371, I'm all ears! My friend just put a hydro-boost system on his 57 chevy two door hardtop. It came from CPP, chrome master cylinder, braided lines, etc... He said the car stops s much better and its a sweet looking setup. He went for 4 wheel disc brakes....primarily for the look on the rear. I plan to install a cooler on the return line to the pump. I've seen the finned aluminum units that look good and are functionally adequate. I still have to figure out the brake pedal assembly and remove the existing brake pedal, master cylinder, etc... I'll post pictures in a day or two.
Here's what the engine compartment looked like when I first began. Someone removed the original J2 intake and installed an aftermarket carburetor. The engine compartment, wiring, etc... was a mess. Note the heater blower and the large air duct units on both the left and right behind the engine. These have since been removed and a plate to cover the entire firewall is under fabrication. I'll install a bolt on plate to cover the wiper motor in the center directly behind the air cleaner.<br/>
A'm I understanding you correctly. So no heater, defrosters and no wipers? but you will be able to stop on a dime. Never thought of that combo before... Tedd
No, I'm removing the original blower, air ducts, etc and replacing it with a vintage air or Hurricane unit with ducts. The wiper motor will remain but there will be a bolt on access plate over it so the firewall is essentially smooth and clean...
Passenger side engine compartment duct/heater core removed. A new 3/16" plate will be installed with a bulkhead fitting for the AC unit.
Drive side duct removed. The red cable was a temporary relocation as the battery was relocated to the trunk. This is where the hydroboost will be mounted.
I talked to a guy at a car show that put a Hydroboost brake and power steering system from a Chevrolet Astro van on a street rod he owned with an Olds engine. He was very pleased with the system. Best of luck, Larry
Last edited by Rocketowner; March 27th, 2017 at 06:10 PM.
Reason: Add
As the saga continues.... I made card board templates to replace the removed duct on the firwall. Then, The templates were used to fabricate 3/16" steel plates, primed in the following photos. The plates were installed to verify fit and to mark mounting holes for attachment to the firewall. I purchased a firewall mount brake assembly which will be the subject of the next photo grouping...
Driver side firewall panel. I used plastic bolt head covers to keep the panel looking neat. It provides a nice reflection of motor. Note mounting bolts for hydro-boost brake booster/master cylinder.
For those of you still watching...
I installed the caliper mounting plates fabricated by "Disc Brake Mike".
I bought 1969 Eldorado front calipers at Mike's recommendation...(I believe there are D70)
I bought the polished Master cylinder assembly from Vintage Reaper.
Do yourself a favor and go to a local hydraulic shop to get custom made hydraulic lines to go from the Mastercylinder valve to the power steering pump (don't buy the lines from Reaper)
The new brake pedal is a universal mounting unit with a square flange for the firewall that matches up to the Master cylinder flange.
I re-purposed the original Oldsmobile brake pedal pad
I removed the original power steering unit from under the floor. This is the point where we connected to the original rear brake line which seemed to be fine.
We retained the original rear drum brakes.
We removed all the original steel brake lines in the front and replaced them with high pressure flexible lines...similar to those found on trailers....worked perfect!
I did run the pump return hydraulic line through a finned aluminum cooler which I mounted low in front of the radiator.
The mastercylinder has a pressure switch on it that can be used for brake lights.
I had a little difficulty coming up with a fitting to go from the flared hydraulic hose fitting to the 3/8"-24 brake line type fitting which is used for the connection to the power steering rack. I finally obtained both fittings I needed and brazed the two together myself....not pretty but it works and it's not easily seen anyway!
I'll add several pictures to illustrate all the steps listed here.
Bottomline, the brakes on the Oldsmobile are simply amazing!!! However, you need to be careful because the braking system is so powerful that you can lock up the front tires easily. You wouldn't need rear discs unless you simply wanted them for the look.
February 12th, 2017, 07:30 AM
