FrankieB

I'm rebuilding the brakes on my '63 Dynamic 88 and have a query regarding the right side front drum.

The one fitted to the car has some scoring to the braking surface but I have a replacement drum that the previous owner had sourced before I bought the car. The only issue is that it is for the left side of the car and has left hand threaded studs fitted.

I have ordered a set of RH threaded studs from Rock Auto but noticed in the service manual that the studs are peened into the drum with a special tool on replacement, and I have no chance at all of finding one of them to complete the job.

Would anyone know if it's acceptable to use the LH thread studded drum on the right side of the car, or should I replace the LH studs with RH threaded ones as per original, and figure some other way of securing them to the brake drum.

Thanks very much,

Frank.

P.S. I should add that the 1963 factory service manual doesn't actually state how to replace the wheel studs on FSC's, but does in the section dedicated to F85's and I can only imagine the procedure is the same.

MDchanic

It's fine to use LH threaded studs on the right... After all, you use RH threaded studs on the left... Right?

Just don't take the car to any tire places or mechanics for any work, or there will be problems.

I do not know how the '63 lug studs are attached, but in newer cars, the studs are splined, and pull firmly into splined holes - you screw a nut on and slowly use it to pull them in.

- Eric

Sugar Bear

X2 on using the LH thread, just torque it properly and check it periodically to see if it is holding. I can't see why it wouldn't hold.

The concern with replacing the studs is damaging the hub while removing the old studs. The studs were swaged/swedged (sp?) in place. A cutter must be used to remove the swedged metal or the hole will be made bigger when the stud is pressed out, then the new stud will be loose in the hub. Some have used a hole saw cutter to remove the swedge. Another method is to grind the head off the back of the stud and remove it toward the front.

Oh yeh, the tire store will get interesting in a hurry...remember to tell them...

FrankieB

Many thanks for swift replies.

I figured it would be fine to use on the opposite side but as I've never encountered left hand threaded wheel nuts before I thought it'd be best to confirm with the people in the know.

I've got some hubcaps for my car so will mark the wheel bearing cover with a warning to anyone working on it, myself included. I can see how someone would run into trouble here as I would if was working on this car and no-one told me about it.

Thanks for explaining that Sugar Bear. I reckoned I could carefully drill the heads off the studs and poke them out the same way they went in but then I'd have no way of securing the new studs. I'll be leaving them as they are and buying some new nuts to suit.

Thanks again,

Frank.

joe_padavano

I've just ignored the swaging issue when replacing lugs and have had no issues in years and miles of driving. For example, I replaced the LH thread lugs on my 62 with RH thread all the way around. The drum isn't swaged to the hub. Big deal. The rear drums aren't swaged either, I'll point out. Just be sure you select a lug with a slightly oversized knurl so it is tight in the hub. Dorman has an extensive catalog of their lugs available in PDF form.

chequenman

Same as what Joe said ^^^^^^ The bigger the job the bigger the Hammer!!!

FrankieB

Thanks for the additional responses lads.

I'll buy some new LH threaded wheel nuts, build it up and see how it goes. That seems to be the easiest and most straight forward way to go for me at the moment..

If I do find a problem and need to change the studs out, at least I now know it can be done fairly easily and safely which was always my biggest worry.

Thanks again to everyone for the information provided.

Frank.