Eddie Hansen

Hey fellas, well I just replaced my outer wheel house, drop down, and quarter panel, I used some duraglass filler on the seam, to fill any pin holes and it is really less than a skim coat, I know it needs more filler and some blocking work, but I also need to do the other metal work on the other side.

My plan is to just dust it with a primer, as there is a lot of bare metal showing, I know it will probably need to come off when I get ready for paint.

I am working in an attached 1 car garage , I do not have a fresh air system, and really no nothing about the new paints, last time i painted was with lacquer, I would shoot an etching primer, then some sandable primer, a sealing primer, colour and clear... but we have come a long way over the years..

My question is does it matter what primer I shoot it with? I am talking a dustying with a spray can, or leave it bare repair the other metal.

do I have the car sprayed in a primer at a shop and have it moved back to my garage to do the body work? , then back to the booth for final painting etc?

Sort of at a loss of what to do...in between...

any help by the paint gurus would be great. The car is going to be a driver and I like the idea of spraying it with PPG primers etc just can not afford the health risks sparaying in an attached garage.

m371961

Wear a organic vapor cartridge respirator and shoot it with Eastwood epoxy primer in a spray can. No etch.

steverw

Im sure Eastwoods primer is good, never used it. I like PPG DP epoxy primer, although its not cheap but its good primer. PPG also has a cheaper brand "ShopLine". Its also good IMO. You can put body filler on top of it, or high build primer, or just top coat it with color. I do remember late 80's or early 90's they took the isocynates out of the DP primers or at least most of it. DP now has an LF designation i believe, dont know what that means but it was there with the new change. Still seems to be good, smells the same, do be sure to use a good respirator. Most auto paint shops have them, 3M brand is good. Just use epoxy and be done with it.
Steve

68_convert

Seal it and do the rest of the body work from there.

Eddie Hansen

But can you spray the ppg primer without a freshairsystem, ? Dont want to be killing the pets and the family with the fumes either.. was reading the msds sheets and they are including eye and skin protection... so it seems a suit and hood but I dont know...

m371961

Eastwood has true 2 part spray cans. Their regular epoxy is ok, but I recently used SPI epoxy and liked it. Not a pro, never used PPG. But epoxy is the way to go and the ability to use filler over it is the plus. Just thought you were looking for a way to seal cheaply and easily while doing other work.

Gary's 2 442-S

PPG or SHOPLINE epoxy is the way to go. I have not used any other manufacture's brand. I just used the SHOPLINE epoxy on my car for protection. But you don't want to leave bare metal. And as Steve said you can use the filler over the primer as long as you scuff it up first.

Eddie Hansen

Patrick that is what I want to do, I eventually will need to primer everything, I am thinking now Iit isnt really practical to paint in the garage....

Eddie Hansen

Thanks gary, did you shoot it in the garage?

coppercutlass

I don't like epoxy primers on body panels. Underhood , frame, underbody its nice but I like etchprimers like the old dupont variprime etch primer. Its thin and protects very good .I have a drive shaft I just used etch primer on 7 years later not a spec of rust on it. Just my 2 cents everyone has their prefrences I'm just stating what I like to use.

Gary's 2 442-S

Yes I did Eddie, just open the garage door while you are shooting it. I have not had a problem painting or priming in my garage. I did the same with my 72 and I painted it in there also. A good respirator is a must.

steverw

Most of my paint jobs have been in my garage, no paint booth, no ventilation system. You can buy a disposable paint suit cheap, you can get a respirator with or with out eye protection. I dont and never had access to a booth so I do what i have to. Just keep unprotected family, friends and pets away until the fumes dissipate. Theres more air contimination from exaust fumes and industrial waste than you will ever do with one paint job. I also have used the Dupont Variprime which is a 2 part primer as i recall, P215 and P216? It was good but since epoxys came into play thats the route i prefer. The DP can be reduced with 25% laquer thinner and used as a primer sealer for top coats. They use to guarantee it to be a 100% moisture barrier. Use the Shopline epoxy its as good as the DP to me, it has ALOT of solids in it... good stuff, cheaper than DP.

m371961

I used eastwood epoxy sprayed after metal replacement. It stayed that way while I did mechanicals, 2 years. When i went back to finish up bodywork I sprayed SPI epoxy then SPI single stage. All done in my garage.I have a whole house fan in wall and used a 3m full face respirator. Not perfect, 10 foot car but price was right and wanted to do it myself.
If you are eventually going to take it for professional refinishing and paint, they may want to strip it anyway to warranty their work.
Anyway, follow all paint info instructions, pay attention to temp of body and paint. Epoxy is temp sensitive for adhesion.

m371961

Oh, I also live where I have no nieghbors, covenants or busybodies to complain about what I do.

Eddie Hansen

Thank you , I have some variprime I think unopened but god it must be very old, soi better just get new stuff, it seems the consensus is I could blow on a coat, using the right masks etc, and if I do a panel at a time should be ok... I put the duraglass over the seamon bare metal as I was taught to do it that I way any issues with that and the primer? Event though it is a very thin coat I wouldnt like to have to remove it,

Eddie Hansen

I do have neighbors but they would be cool I guess, they havent complained yet with all the air grinder and compressor noises lol...

m371961

I ain't a pro, but if the metal was clean where you used the dura-glass, I wouldn't worry.
I would use new paint.

steverw

Just follow the guidelines for application, I would recomend at least 70 degrees temp to spray. It should spray over the duraglass with no problems, just shoot a couple of medium wet coats and it should be good to go. I have sprayed in cooler temps, but it takes longer to set up, and longer wait time between coats. The warmer the better. Epoxy uses an activator so it will harden, but still the warmer the better.

Eddie Hansen

Previously I was taught to ensure there was a couple of 64ths of depth for a seam a place for the duraglAss to sit without getting to thin if that makes sense
Now I did spend a lot of time carefully tapping each weld when it was hot and such and have to say in some spots it is dead on and some it's just in the pinholes etc do you folks think I should tap it in a little using the pick part of the hammer so I have a even depth for the seam? With lacquer and the shrinking I would but if I go epoxy etc I dunno nothing about it? Do I rely just on the build primer?
I will also finish the seam inside as well thanks for all the great advice so far

coppercutlass

You will need to pick it out a bit with a grinder. I have had areas where I had minimal filler shrink up reall bad because the weld is so much thicker than the rest of the metal and the expansion rates are diffrent under cold weather it will be noticeable under warm weather it will be faint. I usually grab a cutting wheel and grind into the welds a bit to make sure it gets filled.

Eddie Hansen

Gotcha, thanks will do that