Removing Trim

[desert442]

What tools would be reccomended for removing trim, emblems etc??

I'm starting on the body work for my olds, and the first step is removing all of the fender badges, trim etc..

Any reccomendations?

thanks,

[joe_padavano]

Originally Posted by desert442

What tools would be reccomended for removing trim, emblems etc??

I'm starting on the body work for my olds, and the first step is removing all of the fender badges, trim etc..

Any reccomendations?

thanks,

It depends on the car and the trim. Older cars use emblems held on with Pal Nuts on the backside of the fender. A wrench works fine (once the fender is off, of course). Newer cars have glued-on emblems. Stainless around the windshield and back window requires a special tool to release the clips that hold it in place. These are available at any auto parts store. Most other trim is held by a combination of metal clips with studs and nuts on the backside or plastic clips that snap over weld studs on the body. No special tools are required.

[buds68a77]

Joe,

Does this apply to the extra window and post trim on '68's?
Nothing special needed there as far as tools or tricks?

Bud

[Jamesbo]

I have used a paint sir stick to remove the chrome at the back of the hood. just carefully lay it flat and tap it off a little at a time.

[68Tom]

Originally Posted by buds68a77

Joe,

Does this apply to the extra window and post trim on '68's?
Nothing special needed there as far as tools or tricks?

Bud

Bud, do you have a Sports Coupe? If so, be very, very careful with it because that stainless trim is impossible to find. I'm still looking myself.

All the other trim I found relatively easy to remove.

I learned a very good tip for removing the drip rail moldings. First, lay down a couple layers of masking tape over the trim. Then, take an old style bottle opener and use the little grabber to grab the underside of the molding. Then, gently pry up the bottom lip--as if you were "opening" a can of very old beer or oil. Work your way down the line, never forcing it and it'll eventually pop right off.

[buds68a77]

Thanks for the tips, I value others experience.

Yes it is a real '68 Canadian bench seat post 442 (now converted to 4 speed). I know what you mean about scarce, took over two years looking on e-bay to get replacements for my vandalized drivers side trim.
And I do have first hand technique with the can opener on many old STEEL canned BUD'S and Carlings Black Label.

Bud

[Ranzan]

use a 1x4 on edge it works great

[citcapp]

Originally Posted by buds68a77

Thanks for the tips, I value others experience.

And I do have first hand technique with the can opener on many old STEEL canned BUD'S and Carlings Black Label.

Bud

Your age is showing

[Jamesbo]

Originally Posted by citcapp

Your age is showing

X2

"Church Key"

[Yellowstatue]

If you have trouble removing the door mirror, use a small block of 1 X 2 wood and tap the mirror base to the rear... I use the same tool as Tom for the drip rail but I put a 45 degree bend in the middle of the tool to make it easier to use and additionally wrap tape on the end that contacts the trim (extra precaution)...