Project Overkil 455 build
#1
Project Overkil 455 build
Well my 455 build is officially underway by Cutlassefi (Mark Remmel). Mark says it will make 550hp but possibly more! I think he has a few tricks up his sleeve from the conversations I've had with him! Looking forward to pics and final Dyno results! I'm sure he will post both but I will if he doesn't! Can't wait!
#3
Mark said it will be stroked to around 478 cu in with scat rods with mahle forge Pistons. Edelbrock heads with 2.1 intake valves and full roller valvetrain. Hydraulic roller cam is about .600 lift I do believe. Torker intake with a quick fuel 950 carb if I'm not mistaken! 2" ARH headers also. Hoping for 550+ hp and 600+Tq I hope!
Last edited by madmax442; July 2nd, 2015 at 09:38 AM.
#6
We're getting a little ahead of ourselves here as I'm just now gathering pieces, and just dropped the block off for the start of basic machining. But here is the projected combo;
N crank stroked to 4.375
Scat 7.100 BBC H beams
Mahle Ford FE 20cc dished piston, has their new ring pack, 1.0, 1.0, 2.0.
480c.i.
Mildly ported Edelbrocks with 2.125 intake
Torker or maybe HSD
ARH Headers
That's the jist of it, should make his numbers.
N crank stroked to 4.375
Scat 7.100 BBC H beams
Mahle Ford FE 20cc dished piston, has their new ring pack, 1.0, 1.0, 2.0.
480c.i.
Mildly ported Edelbrocks with 2.125 intake
Torker or maybe HSD
ARH Headers
That's the jist of it, should make his numbers.
Last edited by cutlassefi; July 2nd, 2015 at 10:00 AM.
#9
details
Mark said it will be stroked to around 478 cu in with scat rods with mahle forge Pistons. Edelbrock heads with 2.1 intake valves and full roller valvetrain. Hydraulic roller cam is about .600 lift I do believe. Torker intake with a quick fuel 950 carb if I'm not mistaken! 2" ARH headers also. Hoping for 550+ hp and 600+Tq I hope!
What bore & stroke? What crank?
#15
here's the gist of it...
junk J heads, big valves
Block bored .025 over for Pontiac Icon pistons
Scat 7.00" H Beam rods
"N" crank
Balanced
ARP main studs
Align honed
Square decked
Bored and honed
Block dressed and relieved
Federal Mogul Race Main bearings
Clevite rod bearings
Durabond Cam bearings
Mahle Moly Top ring set - file fit.
Cloyes Billet timing set.
flat tappet hyd cam - 232/236@.050 on a 110. Lift is .568
junk J heads, big valves
Block bored .025 over for Pontiac Icon pistons
Scat 7.00" H Beam rods
"N" crank
Balanced
ARP main studs
Align honed
Square decked
Bored and honed
Block dressed and relieved
Federal Mogul Race Main bearings
Clevite rod bearings
Durabond Cam bearings
Mahle Moly Top ring set - file fit.
Cloyes Billet timing set.
flat tappet hyd cam - 232/236@.050 on a 110. Lift is .568
Last edited by naphtali5725; July 5th, 2015 at 05:17 AM.
#17
i was hoping for 450+, but i may need better heads to make it, still have to finalize intake/carb... will be using Hedman shorty headers since it's not an all out build, they'll be fine for my Chevy C10
you're welcome, it was a privilege
you're welcome, it was a privilege
Last edited by naphtali5725; July 5th, 2015 at 06:18 AM.
#18
Thank guys!
Stroking the N crank to 4.375 is about $250.00 plus shipping. We're also going to go with an internal balance so there's some additional cost there as well.
Bore will be 4.180. I'm using a Mahle Ford FE dished piston. Compression distance is perfect for use with a 7.100 BBC H beam rod and the 4.375 stroke.
Heads will be mildly ported Edelbrocks with 2.125 intakes. That head responds well to that mod alone.
Total c.i. will be 480, with approx. 10.5:1 compression.
Should run well. We'll keep you posted.
Stroking the N crank to 4.375 is about $250.00 plus shipping. We're also going to go with an internal balance so there's some additional cost there as well.
Bore will be 4.180. I'm using a Mahle Ford FE dished piston. Compression distance is perfect for use with a 7.100 BBC H beam rod and the 4.375 stroke.
Heads will be mildly ported Edelbrocks with 2.125 intakes. That head responds well to that mod alone.
Total c.i. will be 480, with approx. 10.5:1 compression.
Should run well. We'll keep you posted.
#19
cutlassefi
cutlassefi
what can most 455 blocks take in an over bore and not distort the walls and still not have to fill the block would you say? also I assume you are turning down the rod ends on the stroked crank to 2.200" to fit the cheby rods? Have you built any 4.5" cranks? Also, whats the longest rod we can squeeze into these 455s with a 4.5" crank and still keep two compression rings on the pistons? sorry, for all the ?s but I want to start collecting parts for a big inch olds and havn't dug that far as to its limits with bore and stroke and rod length...one thing for sure is the 1.622 rod ratio of the 7.1" and 4.375" sure makes for a happy long living motor!...I like your combo,but would like more cubic inches....thanks for the help,cam
what can most 455 blocks take in an over bore and not distort the walls and still not have to fill the block would you say? also I assume you are turning down the rod ends on the stroked crank to 2.200" to fit the cheby rods? Have you built any 4.5" cranks? Also, whats the longest rod we can squeeze into these 455s with a 4.5" crank and still keep two compression rings on the pistons? sorry, for all the ?s but I want to start collecting parts for a big inch olds and havn't dug that far as to its limits with bore and stroke and rod length...one thing for sure is the 1.622 rod ratio of the 7.1" and 4.375" sure makes for a happy long living motor!...I like your combo,but would like more cubic inches....thanks for the help,cam
#20
You will be pleased with anything from Mark. He is an asset to the community and he actually stands behind his words, actions and work! Its a shame what is happening more and more in the Olds community with quality of work but you will not have that problem with Mark Remmel. I wouldsay good luck, but you don't need that, you are already ahead of the game with an honest builder, so instead of good luck I'll say HAVE FUN! I am also in the mountains of NC maybe we can get the Oldsmobiles together some time!
#21
Not sure if you meant that for me as I'm in Vermont but I agree that Mark has been outstanding to deal with! Can't wait for the dyno sheet on this build and install on my Olds! If this thing runs as good as I hope it does then my NASCAR Build will be that much more fun!
#22
Thanks guys, I always appreciate the kind words!!
Camshaw - typically 4.185-4.190 is about it. But occasionally you'll find one that might let you go to 4.210ish. There are a few here that have said they're at 4.250. I've not seen a block yet that I would be comfortable with at that bore size but maybe you'll get one that will.
Plus often times guys will say you have "core shift". Well I have done more than a few that had unequal wall thickness, only to be corrected once we used the BHJ Bor-Tru. They didn't have core shift, they were bored wrong from the factory. Like they say "they don't make them like they used to". Imo, good, I'm glad they don't.
And yes, 7.100 is about as long as you want anyway. From there you're talking about custom rods etc. Imo it's not worth it, even for a decent strip build.
Camshaw - typically 4.185-4.190 is about it. But occasionally you'll find one that might let you go to 4.210ish. There are a few here that have said they're at 4.250. I've not seen a block yet that I would be comfortable with at that bore size but maybe you'll get one that will.
Plus often times guys will say you have "core shift". Well I have done more than a few that had unequal wall thickness, only to be corrected once we used the BHJ Bor-Tru. They didn't have core shift, they were bored wrong from the factory. Like they say "they don't make them like they used to". Imo, good, I'm glad they don't.
And yes, 7.100 is about as long as you want anyway. From there you're talking about custom rods etc. Imo it's not worth it, even for a decent strip build.
#23
Just an update! Mark has the crank done and the block should be going in for machining! If the heads flow well enough it looks like an order will be put in for a cam with 243/249@.050, .634/.626 lift with HS rockers and a 112 lobe seperation. I can't wait to here this run on the Dyno!
#25
Build cost isn't cheap at around 11k but I know I'm getting quality work done and Mark has to make a living too! I think for what I'm getting its probably a deal as I'm sure there are more costly builders out there that are more qualified to do assembly line work than build a specialty Engine like an Olds! Mark has been more than awesome to me in the fact that he's always asking me what direction I want to take the build and he answers all my dumb or not so dumb questions! I've had a great experience so far and I can honestly say that he will be building me another in the future as well! Thanks again Mark!
#26
Build cost isn't cheap at around 11k but I know I'm getting quality work done and Mark has to make a living too! I think for what I'm getting its probably a deal as I'm sure there are more costly builders out there that are more qualified to do assembly line work than build a specialty Engine like an Olds! Mark has been more than awesome to me in the fact that he's always asking me what direction I want to take the build and he answers all my dumb or not so dumb questions! I've had a great experience so far and I can honestly say that he will be building me another in the future as well! Thanks again Mark!
#27
I wanted to do multi port injection on this one but couldn't shell out another 5k for the electronics but after I sell my old house, Mark will be building an injected all out 1200+hp NASCAR/Batten headed and F2 procharged smallblock for me!
#28
Where do you plan on running it?
#29
#30
The car will be a street driven car still, even after the NASCAR engine goes between the fenders! I actually believe it will be more civilized than the Current build but we'll see! I just want to have lots of fun at the track but I've decided that I'm going to shoot for an NHRA license when the time comes and run special events at Epping in New Hampshire and Lebanon Valley in New York. I can't wait!!!!
#31
The car will be a street driven car still, even after the NASCAR engine goes between the fenders! I actually believe it will be more civilized than the Current build but we'll see! I just want to have lots of fun at the track but I've decided that I'm going to shoot for an NHRA license when the time comes and run special events at Epping in New Hampshire and Lebanon Valley in New York. I can't wait!!!!
#32
I believe my big block will have 2 inch primary American Racing Headers on it but my NASCAR build will require custom built headers to fit the Batten Heads! I'm sure the smallblock will be a stepped style header as well.
#33
So this BBO is to be a race engine?With some street time? When is the dyno time frame? Will you post the build in the racing forum along with your car set up? It seems mark is making a very nice competition engine for your ride.Please keep up with the updates.
#34
This will be raced yes but I'd like to put around 500 miles on it a year! I'll share the results or Cutlassefi will n the race section after. I'll have time slips next year for sure!
#35
#37
I think I'm after you 2 guys. I think mine is a similar build to yours, EFI Port injection . . . Looking forward to reading about your final build.
#38
I know that Mark is having some issues with one engine that is just in front of me. He hopes to get mine assembled within a week and then to the dyno after that. Hoping for around 500hp and tons of torque. I am sure Mark will post my dyno results on here.
#39
That's correct Jim.
The W30 build had carb issues, consequently 2 trips to the dyno. On top of that I have a computer virus that's made tuning a couple of other current Efi projects (a Ford 347 and a Chevy 447, both 8 stacks) that much more difficult. They're Accel units with the older software.
Needless to say I'm glad that Jim and Mike have opted for the much more current AEM stuff instead.
And yes I will post status and dyno sheets and video here, unless you guys want to do that.
The W30 build had carb issues, consequently 2 trips to the dyno. On top of that I have a computer virus that's made tuning a couple of other current Efi projects (a Ford 347 and a Chevy 447, both 8 stacks) that much more difficult. They're Accel units with the older software.
Needless to say I'm glad that Jim and Mike have opted for the much more current AEM stuff instead.
And yes I will post status and dyno sheets and video here, unless you guys want to do that.
#40
That's correct Jim.
The W30 build had carb issues, consequently 2 trips to the dyno. On top of that I have a computer virus that's made tuning a couple of other current Efi projects (a Ford 347 and a Chevy 447, both 8 stacks) that much more difficult. They're Accel units with the older software.
Needless to say I'm glad that Jim and Mike have opted for the much more current AEM stuff instead.
And yes I will post status and dyno sheets and video here, unless you guys want to do that.
The W30 build had carb issues, consequently 2 trips to the dyno. On top of that I have a computer virus that's made tuning a couple of other current Efi projects (a Ford 347 and a Chevy 447, both 8 stacks) that much more difficult. They're Accel units with the older software.
Needless to say I'm glad that Jim and Mike have opted for the much more current AEM stuff instead.
And yes I will post status and dyno sheets and video here, unless you guys want to do that.