Want to test run my engine- easiest set up to test fire and run
#1
Want to test run my engine- easiest set up to test fire and run
Hi Guys,
I've torn the entire front end of my car off and will be restoring suspension, brakes and installing new engine/ rebuilt transmission.
I rebuilt my '67 E motor and I think I did a good job yet not 100% sure. I'd like to test fire it and make sure. if it all goes to crap I'd like to have an quick/easy path to removal.
I'm looking for the easiest way to connect my motor to the motor mounts and fire it up for the break in. I'd like to connect the least amount of parts in order to make removal (if necessary) easy/fast.
In order to avoid the transmission hook ups I'm thinking about using a t350 or t400 case to bolt in a secure the motor (its light and no fluid or other connections needed). I couldn't figure out a way to secure the motor without having the transmission in place.
I'll bolt in the front core support with radiator, etc.
Wiring- I bought my car with a swiss cheese wiring system. I'm looking for the most direct connections I can make in order to run the starter and fire up the motor. Bypassing the stock wiring system would probably save time and hassle.
Fuel- I'll either use the stock tank connections or do a boat tank.
I'm pretty sure many of you have done something like this - looking for any suggestions or lessons learned over the years.
Once I know the motor is good I'll make all the permanent connections.
THanks for guidance etc.
Mike
I've torn the entire front end of my car off and will be restoring suspension, brakes and installing new engine/ rebuilt transmission.
I rebuilt my '67 E motor and I think I did a good job yet not 100% sure. I'd like to test fire it and make sure. if it all goes to crap I'd like to have an quick/easy path to removal.
I'm looking for the easiest way to connect my motor to the motor mounts and fire it up for the break in. I'd like to connect the least amount of parts in order to make removal (if necessary) easy/fast.
In order to avoid the transmission hook ups I'm thinking about using a t350 or t400 case to bolt in a secure the motor (its light and no fluid or other connections needed). I couldn't figure out a way to secure the motor without having the transmission in place.
I'll bolt in the front core support with radiator, etc.
Wiring- I bought my car with a swiss cheese wiring system. I'm looking for the most direct connections I can make in order to run the starter and fire up the motor. Bypassing the stock wiring system would probably save time and hassle.
Fuel- I'll either use the stock tank connections or do a boat tank.
I'm pretty sure many of you have done something like this - looking for any suggestions or lessons learned over the years.
Once I know the motor is good I'll make all the permanent connections.
THanks for guidance etc.
Mike
#2
Basically a hot wire from the battery positive terminal to the coil+. Battery plus cable to starter and and a ground to the block. A simple switch to the solenoid or you can just touch a positive wire to the S terminal to crank the engine. I'd use a temporary mechanical temp and oil pressure gauge.
#4
I don't agree with no thermostat.
You want to see if your build is good?, you are going to at least get it up to normal operating temperature and maybe break in the cam?.
But DO hook up temporary oil and temperature gauges so you can shut it down if something goes awry.
What are you using for a flywheel?, a dry torque converter might not be enough, a flex plate alone certainly won't.
Roger.
You want to see if your build is good?, you are going to at least get it up to normal operating temperature and maybe break in the cam?.
But DO hook up temporary oil and temperature gauges so you can shut it down if something goes awry.
What are you using for a flywheel?, a dry torque converter might not be enough, a flex plate alone certainly won't.
Roger.
#5
Trust me on the no t stat. Specially if you are breaking in a cam that needs constant rpm. Run the t stat after cam break in. Belive me on this because I have the burn scars the prove why not to run a t stat during break in. Running no t stat is one less thing that can go wrong during break in after break in yes run it. Running temp does not matter for cam break in but constant rpm does.
#6
Use water for coolant so if things go wrong, the spill is easy to clean up and not poisonous. Can't leave it in there if freezing weather obviously.
Chances are everything is fine, and you will not need to remove the engine. You will want the exhaust hooked up well.
I disagree here. A freak mishap could happen at any time, and how does having no t'stat make it different? Besides taking longer to warm up.... Are we to believe that the t'stat affects the pressure, causing a hose to blow off that otherwise would not have? No. The hoses have to withstand the 15psi or so under all operating conditions, and during hot soak after shut down. I assure you the factory does not break in the engine, then install a t'stat.
I think you want it to warm up quickly like the engineered cooling system was designed to accomplish. Double ck all the hose clamps for a secure connection, sure. The engine is designed to run at any and all ordinary speeds, even during break-in.
Chances are everything is fine, and you will not need to remove the engine. You will want the exhaust hooked up well.
Trust me on the no t stat. Specially if you are breaking in a cam that needs constant rpm. Run the t stat after cam break in. Believe me on this because I have the burn scars the prove why not to run a t stat during break in. Running no t stat is one less thing that can go wrong during break in after break in yes run it. Running temp does not matter for cam break in but constant rpm does.
I think you want it to warm up quickly like the engineered cooling system was designed to accomplish. Double ck all the hose clamps for a secure connection, sure. The engine is designed to run at any and all ordinary speeds, even during break-in.
#7
Ulises is correct with no thermostat. I have a close friend that has 2 running engine stands. He has built a lot of engines, and broken in many cams. The reason you don't run a thermostat on a running engine stand is because you are not running the engine in a car, with a shroud pulling air through the radiator, "like the cooling system was designed". He's tried electric fans, and a big box fan in front, it's just not the same. If you really want to make sure it stays cool, you could hook a garden hose to a nipple on the intake where the heater control valve screws in and leave the radiator cap off. Here's a link to a cheap running engine stand on Fleabay-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Easy-Run-s-E..._Tools&vxp=mtr
Here's some pictures of the test run stand I built-
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Easy-Run-s-E..._Tools&vxp=mtr
Here's some pictures of the test run stand I built-
#8
The op. Stated mounting it in the frame with minimal bolt ons. I would treat it like a running stand. Any measure you can take to prevent a minor failure that could harm you is a no brainer. The cooling system has more chances of failing during break in because its an engine that has never ran. Numerous things can go wrong and the kicker is you are essentially next to the engine while you do this. For me I spend 1500 on medical bills and missed a total of 5 unpaid days . Roughly a 2500 dollar mistake / accident. Will running no t stat really hurt the engine during break in. NO ! We are not running these engines like gm did. Specially for the hobbist the possibility of something going wrong is much higher . That's all I'm getting at. This is like people thinking its ok to dump fuel down the carb to fire it up. I got into a huge argument over this with someone and for some reason I feel people throw safety out the window. Once you get bit it will make you take a step back a realize you might not be doing the safest practices or taking the proper measures to keep yourself safe . For me it was an eye opener and I can say I will spend extra time making sure things will go right specially after getting burnt.
Last edited by coppercutlass; November 22nd, 2014 at 07:49 PM.
#10
I was all healed up in a month . I had a thread somewhere on here "I got burnt " I think that was the name but my point is safety safety safety. Even when we think we are safe things can go wrong.
It got my neck which was 1st degree but hurt like hell , then my arm was 2nd degree. You think this looks bad one week later the area between my elbow and armpit where raw after all the dead skin was peeled by the doctor lady. Im very lucky it wasn't my face.
Its a mixed blessing because it really makes me nit pick my work even more and out a little more effort into little things like using high psi fuel injection clamps on my trans cooler lines just to be safe. It really messes with you because once you've experienced an accident like that you start to question every little nut and bolt you never used to bat an eye about. When I re assembled my car and put the engine and trans in I spent a solid 2 weeks buttoning everything up making sure everything was tight and checked and double checked. Obsessive ? possibly but im not risking it anymore because I got lucky once already. Its not my first rodeo and I work on cars day in and out and so does 67cutlassfreak . I also take more steps at work to be safe after my accident. Even for a simple tack weld i will gear up.
It got my neck which was 1st degree but hurt like hell , then my arm was 2nd degree. You think this looks bad one week later the area between my elbow and armpit where raw after all the dead skin was peeled by the doctor lady. Im very lucky it wasn't my face.
Its a mixed blessing because it really makes me nit pick my work even more and out a little more effort into little things like using high psi fuel injection clamps on my trans cooler lines just to be safe. It really messes with you because once you've experienced an accident like that you start to question every little nut and bolt you never used to bat an eye about. When I re assembled my car and put the engine and trans in I spent a solid 2 weeks buttoning everything up making sure everything was tight and checked and double checked. Obsessive ? possibly but im not risking it anymore because I got lucky once already. Its not my first rodeo and I work on cars day in and out and so does 67cutlassfreak . I also take more steps at work to be safe after my accident. Even for a simple tack weld i will gear up.
Last edited by coppercutlass; November 22nd, 2014 at 08:42 PM.
#11
I don't agree with no thermostat.
You want to see if your build is good?, you are going to at least get it up to normal operating temperature and maybe break in the cam?.
But DO hook up temporary oil and temperature gauges so you can shut it down if something goes awry.
What are you using for a flywheel?, a dry torque converter might not be enough, a flex plate alone certainly won't.
Roger.
You want to see if your build is good?, you are going to at least get it up to normal operating temperature and maybe break in the cam?.
But DO hook up temporary oil and temperature gauges so you can shut it down if something goes awry.
What are you using for a flywheel?, a dry torque converter might not be enough, a flex plate alone certainly won't.
Roger.
#12
Quite a bit short on MASS I believe is the main issue. At least the balance weight is there.
You certainly CAN test run an engine with just a flexplate, but if possible avoid that practice.
#14
Ok thanks, the bad cylinder number 8 is reading absolutely zero . The rest read around 125-130 so sounds about right.
My dad diagnosed the burnt valve after doing leak down test. Pumping air into the suspect cylinder we found air pouring out of the exhaust pipe, the rest held pressure.
Thanks for the quick replies
My dad diagnosed the burnt valve after doing leak down test. Pumping air into the suspect cylinder we found air pouring out of the exhaust pipe, the rest held pressure.
Thanks for the quick replies
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August 10th, 2012 02:21 AM