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Old June 6th, 2012, 03:42 PM   #1
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Oil dipstick tube install

What's the best way to install the dipstick tube without beating and bending it to all hell.

Thanks..
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Old June 6th, 2012, 03:55 PM   #2
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You have the block out of the car? Or is it still in?

The dipstick tube has 2 pressure rings to seat into the block. I've always used just a slightly tapered drift that fits into the opening of the tube, and gently tap it into place.

Disconnect the battery first, it's awfully close to the hot terminal where you put the tube in and you don't want to melt the tube by accident.
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Old June 6th, 2012, 04:05 PM   #3
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The engine is in the car with headers. I'll give that a try
Thanks Allan..
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Old June 6th, 2012, 06:11 PM   #4
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I know someone else with an Olds 350 with headers and the access to the oil tube is really really tight with headers on. You might need to pull the LF wheel and fender liner to get a good lineup there. Oh, one other thing. I assume you have the right dipstick/tube? They are different sizes for Olds than Chev. I'd bet that without the dipstick tube, you're prolly losing oil and/or getting it all over the starter?

What happened to your old dipstick tube? If it's broken in the block, you'll prolly need to punch it through to the oil pan before you install the new one. I'd use a smaller punch to do that - even a smaller flat blade driver will do the trick. A good trick to use if you're worried about it rattling around in there? JB Weld a decent magnet to the bottom of the oil pan. It will also collect any small metal particles that may be there.
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Old June 6th, 2012, 06:32 PM   #5
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The old dipstick tube broke in the block but I got the broken piece out. I ordered this tube from year one and it's for an olds so hopefully there will be no issues there.

There is some oil being spit out onto the starter I'll have someone feed the the tube from up top an I'll try to guide it in from the bottom if need be I'll pull the starter.

Thanks for the feedback..
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Old June 6th, 2012, 06:41 PM   #6
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Sounds good. Let us know what happens. But PLEASE, no matter how careful you try to be on this, DISCONNECT the battery first..I know this from experience....
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Old June 6th, 2012, 06:42 PM   #7
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I use a box or open end wrench, just large enough to fit around the tube, but rest on the flared ring, then tap on the wrench.
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Old June 6th, 2012, 07:34 PM   #8
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I usually put a bit of RTV in between the 2 sealing rings....sometimes it helps to have someone down below to keep it at the right angle while tapping it in place from above and sometimes due to clearances something needs to be placed on the top sealing ring and hammered on..... youll figure it out...
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Old June 6th, 2012, 08:46 PM   #9
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Using NOS tubes, I have been able to put a bolt into the end and tap on the bolt with a hammer, getting the first ring into the block. I just generally quit there and have had no leaks. If I try to get the second ring in, the tube bends, generally. This is all when the engine and accessories are already in the car.
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Old June 7th, 2012, 12:53 AM   #10
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Thanks guys I'll give it a go within the next couple of days..
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Old June 8th, 2012, 11:15 AM   #11
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Another vote for finding a bolt which fits the tube.
Hammer lightly on the bolt to seat the dipstick.
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Old June 8th, 2012, 11:42 AM   #12
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i used a piece of hardwood as a drift and lovingly tapped it into place
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Old June 8th, 2012, 12:39 PM   #13
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I think the biggest problem is anyone who's never done this thinks they have to hit it too hard. Not the case; only the 2 pressure bumps give slight resistance. I would still seat it to the second bump though; especially if you want fairly accurate oil level readings.
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Old June 8th, 2012, 02:32 PM   #14
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I used the bolt and tapped on it with a hammer and it worked like a champ! I had to remove the starter ( 2 bolts) but the whole job took about a half hour......if that.

Thanks for the help/tips..
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Old June 8th, 2012, 02:46 PM   #15
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Yup, the bolt...only way to go! Glad you got it in.
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Old June 8th, 2012, 02:56 PM   #16
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Glad you got it done. Now clean up that starter and put it back in!
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Old June 8th, 2012, 06:06 PM   #17
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i use some hi-tack on the tube where it seals again the block, the above installation methods all work. clean up any stray hi-tack with acetone.


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Old June 8th, 2012, 11:36 PM   #18
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I use a upright belt sander and turn down the two sealing rings just a tad. Put a bead of silicon sealer around the rings. A couple of heavy taps with the rubber mallet. Done deal, no leaks.

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Old October 26th, 2012, 03:46 PM   #19
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Oil tube install

I fixed mine this way when I accidentally crushed the original oil tube with the exhaust manifold. I took the new tube and with my air grinder just lightly ground a little flat spot on four sides of both ridges. Be careful not to take to much off. Then I took a small box end wrench that would fit over the top of the oil tube but not the ridge that acts as the tube stop and tapped it in gently as possible, but still with a little force. After the first ridge was in the block. I took of the wrench and tapped the top of the tube with a hammer and she went right in with out any damage. It has a tight seal with no leaks.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 07:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brown7373 View Post
I use a box or open end wrench, just large enough to fit around the tube, but rest on the flared ring, then tap on the wrench.

This is the method I use. Works well.
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Old October 27th, 2012, 07:20 PM
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