Can I just get a new A/C belt and try it?
#1
Can I just get a new A/C belt and try it?
I have a 66 Toronado with A/C. When I bought the car there was no belt on the A/C. I have a belt now but I'm not sure if I can just put it on and fire it up or if I have to take off the compressor and have it checked first. Any advice would be appreciated.
I was able to spin the compressor by hand and didn't hear any grinding. Since I've never restored a car before I thought it best to ask first before sending the A/C to the garbage. Suppose it may already be trash.
Advice is greatly appreciated.
Jeff in Minneapolis
I was able to spin the compressor by hand and didn't hear any grinding. Since I've never restored a car before I thought it best to ask first before sending the A/C to the garbage. Suppose it may already be trash.
Advice is greatly appreciated.
Jeff in Minneapolis
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Jeff,
There was probably no belt on the compressor for a reason. The compressor is designed to freewheel when not being used. When the AC engages, the clutch on the compressor will engage to power the AC pump piston. I'm betting the piston is seized, or the rest of the AC has a leak somewhere and the PO decided to bypass instead of fixing. Why not have the compressor tested to find out before you junk it?
EDIT: BTW you've done a fabulous job restoring the exterior of that car. Put some interior and engine pics into your profile. I really enjoyed looking at your progress
There was probably no belt on the compressor for a reason. The compressor is designed to freewheel when not being used. When the AC engages, the clutch on the compressor will engage to power the AC pump piston. I'm betting the piston is seized, or the rest of the AC has a leak somewhere and the PO decided to bypass instead of fixing. Why not have the compressor tested to find out before you junk it?
EDIT: BTW you've done a fabulous job restoring the exterior of that car. Put some interior and engine pics into your profile. I really enjoyed looking at your progress
#3
I am assuming that when you say you were able to spin the compressor by hand, you mean the central clutch portion and not the outer pulley portion.
Before trying the compressor, be sure that there is freon in the system.
It is BAD for the compressor to run with the system empty (and without oil).
Unscrew one of the Schrader valves and push it in with your nail or the corner of a screwdriver. If stuff hisses out, there's something in there. If it just pushes in and maybe goes "PFFffffffffffft," then you need to fill it before you try it.
And R12 is expensive if you don't have a stash of it.
- Eric
Before trying the compressor, be sure that there is freon in the system.
It is BAD for the compressor to run with the system empty (and without oil).
Unscrew one of the Schrader valves and push it in with your nail or the corner of a screwdriver. If stuff hisses out, there's something in there. If it just pushes in and maybe goes "PFFffffffffffft," then you need to fill it before you try it.
And R12 is expensive if you don't have a stash of it.
- Eric
#4
It would be a shame to simply junk the A/C IMO, I think it's a safe bet the system has a fault, more than likely out of gas. I'm not sure if cars of that vintage have a switch preventing the clutch engaging if there is insufficient pressure in the system.
I don't think it would cost much to get it checked out, even if the outcome is the system is shot you won't be too badly out of pocket.
Roger.
I don't think it would cost much to get it checked out, even if the outcome is the system is shot you won't be too badly out of pocket.
Roger.
#5
#6
When I bought my 72 the A/C didn't work, but the guy I bought it from said he just never used it and he thought it would work if charged, Yeah, right I thought. I bought a couple cans of R134 (it had been converted) and low and behold, it worked. It did have a slow leak but would work for weeks at a time fairly well. Eventually I bought a POA for 134, an expansion valve, a new filter dryer and a crossflow condensor designed for 134. I now get between 20 and 28 degree air at the vents. I never did find a specific leak. I think from non use, the compressor shaft seal had a slow leak. It has gotten much better with regular use and holds a charge fine. Now my system had originally leaked but not completely discharged. No air had entered the system. It is worth a try. I bought a Haynes A/C manual and tried to learn a little about A/C systems and while I am by no means an expert, I have been able to service and keep my A/C systems functioning.
#7
Have it looked at by someone in the know. It might be a simple fix? Contact vintageautoair dot com. They have everything you need to restore or upgrade your system. Their tech support is great also. BTW I love the 66. Dad had one. That’s where the Olds bug started biting...maroon, deluxe, black gut. Mom often got rubber out of it driving me to school!
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