455 Rebuild Question

tsimpsonaz · 12-01-2007, 05:32 PM

I am considering buying a 455 from someone that has been rebuild to install in my 68 Cutlass.

The guy selling the engine did a complete rebuild on it and it sounds like he did everything correct and used good quality parts. Crank was ground and balanced, new cam, new lifters, new roller rockers, etc.
The engine was built several years ago. He showed me reciepts for all parts and all work done and some of the parts were bought back in 1996. I don't think he finished building it until 3-4 years ago even though many of the parts are 11 years old. It has always been on an engine stand, and covered. He said the valves have always been in a closed position, spark plugs are installed hand tight so it's been sealed. It's never been started up or had oil or water in it.

It can be turned by hand so seems to be mechanically smooth.

My question is: Is the engine okay after sitting for so many years even though all parts and gaskets are new? Also, this is in Arizona so we don't really have a problem with humidity and rust.

Thanks for any comments!

88 coupe · 12-01-2007, 07:45 PM

Going by your description: If the rebuild was done correctly, you should have no problem.

Norm

67olds · 12-02-2007, 05:51 AM

Just a thought...

Might remove oil pan or a valve cover and inspect gasket. I wonder if Arizona heat/aridity might effect them negatively after 10 years. Perhaps they dry out to the point of being solid (instead of flaccid)--then you'll have leaks. I would think if one gasket were OK, the rest would likely be in good shape also. Realize I have no experience with engines in such a climate--so I might be way off. Just seems like an ounce of prevention that could be much easier handled on a stand vs. in the car.

Only spent a few days in AZ, they tell me its nice.

Jeff
67 Cutlass Supreme Conv

Redog · 12-02-2007, 04:33 PM

The motor in my car was only ran every so often.

The last time the car was on the road, that I know of was back in 1982 (inspection sticker said 9-1982)

I dropped off the motor at the shop, my mech put a tube into a 1 gallon gas can and it started right up when we connected the coil to a battery. I have a video on You Tube of it. The carb needed a rebuild bad too

With that, I'd say the motor should be fine, esp, being covered and no oil or water in it

tsimpsonaz · 12-02-2007, 06:35 PM

Thanks for all of the responses and the great information. I feel a lot better about purchasing this engine now.

Kennybill · 12-03-2007, 03:19 AM

I would fill a new oil filter and the pan with Rotella or Brad-Penn oil, both have zinc for the camshaft break-in. PRIME the OIL system. Make sure EVERYTHING is right before starting. Have a fan on the radiator and a fire-ext. ready. Read-up about how to start-up to break-in a new camshaft. Good Luck, Ken

W30post · 12-06-2007, 10:02 AM

I started building my engine in 97 and didn't start it until 2006. No problems from leaks.

Just gotta add this one thing. Check to see if the distributor is getting oil when you prime it. Don't wait until you put it in your car to prime it either.

A lot of machine shops know Ford and Chevy motors. They put in a solid plug in the driver's rear lifter valley plug when it should have a weap hole in it. i have seen and heard about cams breaking before break in is complete. You can change this very easily with the motor out of the car. Let the board know and we can help.

If in the car, you have to pull the motor or trans. I pulled the trans when I found this out before starting the car for the first time.

73olds88 · 12-07-2007, 06:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsimpsonaz

Thanks for all of the responses and the great information. I feel a lot better about purchasing this engine now.

I was just curious what a rebuilt 455 goes for? I have one in my 73 Delta 88 convertible and, while it runs fine, it burns a little oil and it just look rough with the hood up. I talked to a good machine shop and I think he quoted me about $3,000. Just wondered how much I could get one already rebuilt for?
Thanks.

kevinkpk · 12-07-2007, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73olds88

I was just curious what a rebuilt 455 goes for? I have one in my 73 Delta 88 convertible and, while it runs fine, it burns a little oil and it just look rough with the hood up. I talked to a good machine shop and I think he quoted me about $3,000. Just wondered how much I could get one already rebuilt for?
Thanks.

Choke, I'd have to ask what all is done, rebuilding your exsisting as is? You can get into that price range depending, but 3K is alot of money. My disclaimer is I don't know, but I am sure you will get a better reply. You might give more detail as to exactly what you have, what you want, ect. If this is a guess on cost, you have to consider the unknowns, such as heads, is the block cracked ect.

73olds88 · 12-08-2007, 06:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kevinkpk

Choke, I'd have to ask what all is done, rebuilding your exsisting as is? You can get into that price range depending, but 3K is alot of money. My disclaimer is I don't know, but I am sure you will get a better reply. You might give more detail as to exactly what you have, what you want, ect. If this is a guess on cost, you have to consider the unknowns, such as heads, is the block cracked ect.

Thanks for the reply. I don't think the heads or block are a problem. It runs great and has tons of power. But the little bit of oil it burns smells bad and all the paint is off the engine and needs to have a fine layer of rust removed before any new paint. I guess what I really want is a cleaner burning engine that looks good with the hood up. Don't know what an engine would need in order to make that happen; would that require a major rebuild or not?

kevinkpk · 12-08-2007, 07:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73olds88

Thanks for the reply. I don't think the heads or block are a problem. It runs great and has tons of power. But the little bit of oil it burns smells bad and all the paint is off the engine and needs to have a fine layer of rust removed before any new paint. I guess what I really want is a cleaner burning engine that looks good with the hood up. Don't know what an engine would need in order to make that happen; would that require a major rebuild or not?

Could just be valve seals leaking, you'd need to run a compression test to see if it's rings or what.

coppertopgmc · 12-08-2007, 05:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73olds88

I was just curious what a rebuilt 455 goes for? I have one in my 73 Delta 88 convertible and, while it runs fine, it burns a little oil and it just look rough with the hood up. I talked to a good machine shop and I think he quoted me about $3,000. Just wondered how much I could get one already rebuilt for?
Thanks.

You can buy a rebuilt 455 engine for about $1700 to $2000 or rebuild yours for about the same price.

tsimpsonaz · 12-10-2007, 03:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 73olds88

I was just curious what a rebuilt 455 goes for? I have one in my 73 Delta 88 convertible and, while it runs fine, it burns a little oil and it just look rough with the hood up. I talked to a good machine shop and I think he quoted me about $3,000. Just wondered how much I could get one already rebuilt for?
Thanks.

I found one locally for $3,000. He said he spent over $5,000 on it with all the parts and machine shop labor, balancing, etc.

12-01-2007, 05:32 PM	#1 (permalink)
tsimpsonaz Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 3	455 Rebuild Question I am considering buying a 455 from someone that has been rebuild to install in my 68 Cutlass. The guy selling the engine did a complete rebuild on it and it sounds like he did everything correct and used good quality parts. Crank was ground and balanced, new cam, new lifters, new roller rockers, etc. The engine was built several years ago. He showed me reciepts for all parts and all work done and some of the parts were bought back in 1996. I don't think he finished building it until 3-4 years ago even though many of the parts are 11 years old. It has always been on an engine stand, and covered. He said the valves have always been in a closed position, spark plugs are installed hand tight so it's been sealed. It's never been started up or had oil or water in it. It can be turned by hand so seems to be mechanically smooth. My question is: Is the engine okay after sitting for so many years even though all parts and gaskets are new? Also, this is in Arizona so we don't really have a problem with humidity and rust. Thanks for any comments!

12-03-2007, 03:19 AM	#6 (permalink)
Kennybill Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Youngstown, Ohio Posts: 196	I would fill a new oil filter and the pan with Rotella or Brad-Penn oil, both have zinc for the camshaft break-in. PRIME the OIL system. Make sure EVERYTHING is right before starting. Have a fan on the radiator and a fire-ext. ready. Read-up about how to start-up to break-in a new camshaft. Good Luck, Ken __________________ A man has to know his limitations, especially with an Oldsmobile

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12-02-2007, 05:51 AM	#3 (permalink)
67olds Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: O'Fallon, IL Posts: 8	Just a thought... Might remove oil pan or a valve cover and inspect gasket. I wonder if Arizona heat/aridity might effect them negatively after 10 years. Perhaps they dry out to the point of being solid (instead of flaccid)--then you'll have leaks. I would think if one gasket were OK, the rest would likely be in good shape also. Realize I have no experience with engines in such a climate--so I might be way off. Just seems like an ounce of prevention that could be much easier handled on a stand vs. in the car. Only spent a few days in AZ, they tell me its nice. Jeff 67 Cutlass Supreme Conv

12-02-2007, 04:33 PM	#4 (permalink)
Redog Alero Chapter Secretary Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Newtown, PA Posts: 679	The motor in my car was only ran every so often. The last time the car was on the road, that I know of was back in 1982 (inspection sticker said 9-1982) I dropped off the motor at the shop, my mech put a tube into a 1 gallon gas can and it started right up when we connected the coil to a battery. I have a video on You Tube of it. The carb needed a rebuild bad too With that, I'd say the motor should be fine, esp, being covered and no oil or water in it

12-02-2007, 06:35 PM	#5 (permalink)
tsimpsonaz Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 3	Thanks for all of the responses and the great information. I feel a lot better about purchasing this engine now.

12-06-2007, 10:02 AM	#7 (permalink)
W30post Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 33	I started building my engine in 97 and didn't start it until 2006. No problems from leaks. Just gotta add this one thing. Check to see if the distributor is getting oil when you prime it. Don't wait until you put it in your car to prime it either. A lot of machine shops know Ford and Chevy motors. They put in a solid plug in the driver's rear lifter valley plug when it should have a weap hole in it. i have seen and heard about cams breaking before break in is complete. You can change this very easily with the motor out of the car. Let the board know and we can help. If in the car, you have to pull the motor or trans. I pulled the trans when I found this out before starting the car for the first time.