Valley Pan

mcutlass1969 · 07-29-2007, 04:12 PM

Ok I am back to this 455 Valley Pan again. In using it do we use the edges as gasketso? If so just RTV above and below? If not which side do we add the intake gaskets? On the heads side or intake side?

Jim's rare 80 · 07-30-2007, 04:01 AM

If you are using the valley pan, it is the gasket. Use sealant around both sides of all openings. Don't use another gasket with the valley pan. It's one, or the other. Hope this helps. Jim.

caveman442 · 08-05-2007, 01:14 AM

i use coppercote spray on those both sides

71 delta88guy · 09-24-2007, 07:51 PM

or better yet. screw the valley pan. Vacuum leaking,overpriced piece of junk it is. Go with the 4 piece gasket from mr. gasket. Nice thick port side,chuck the ends and use ultra black,ultra blue,or even better, use ford rtv designed for oil pans on the 7.3 diesel. It'll take 3 guys to get it off again if you ever have to and will never leak oil.

Oldsguy · 09-25-2007, 05:23 AM

IF you do use the valley pan, practice inserting it dry, make sure you have it correct side to the front. You should follow the directions about not using silicone on the front and rear seals except for the corners, if you don't and add silicone to the bottom and top of the end gaskets they might slip off. Some people cut out the center section completely, I haven't in the past but did try it this time but haven't had the engine running yet to see if it leaks or not. I think next time I will follow 71 delta88guy's recommendation though.

Olds64 · 09-25-2007, 04:11 PM

JB Weld.

W30post · 10-24-2007, 06:11 PM

Just went through the intake gasket again on my W-30. This is a stock motor with factory aluminum intake. The advice I was given many times is cut the turkey tray so it fits in the motor and doesn't get in the way of the Mr. Gaskets intake seals. That keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake.

Also make sure you retorque the Mr. Gasket seals. I didn't on the first try and it caused an exhaust leak at the intake to head surface. I was told to retorque after about 6 to 10 heat cycles of the motor until they completely stop compressing.

I didn't use the end seals, just RTV. One last thing about either of the Mr. Gasket #404 or the Ultraseals, they do not have the exhaust port opened under the carb. You have to do that one yourself. I used the factory gasket for a template then cut away what wasn't needed. If you don't do this the car can be very anemic when cold if tuning is on the rich side.

James

J-(Chicago) · 10-24-2007, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by W30post

One last thing about either of the Mr. Gasket #404 or the Ultraseals, they do not have the exhaust port opened under the carb. You have to do that one yourself.

James

I was just going to mention that.

I use the turkey tray and an assload of Blue Rtv personally.

I have 60000 miles on the intake now and still no issues.

Thank god.

71 delta88guy · 10-24-2007, 07:40 PM

The regular blue rtv should not be sold anymore. It sucks! The addition of the ultra rtv's is so much better than the old and tired and sucky plain blue rtv it should be retired. Sick to death of prying it from oil pump srtainers by people who used it as described and had it break off and clog the oil pickup.Ultra grey is the best of the ultra's. Manufacturer rtv's are even better. Mitsubishi,nissan and ford/international have rtv's so much better than a gasket it's just sick. Try them.

J-(Chicago) · 10-24-2007, 07:49 PM

Delta 444

For the Delta
haha.

The_Jeremiah · 10-24-2007, 08:15 PM

wait im not quite understanding this. did you say cut the sides off where the it normally joins the manifold and head, and leave the main part of the valley pan ? can you do that ? where do i get this 4 piece mr gasket set you guys mentioned ?

soxfan · 10-24-2007, 08:41 PM

You can get the #404 gaskets from just about any auto parts store. Most sell Mr. Gasket items. If you didn't want to go to an auto parts store you can call or buy the gaskets online from suppliers like Summit.

Oldsguy · 10-25-2007, 05:00 AM

He was saying TRIM the valley pan part so it doesn't bind or scrape the insides of the block "so it fits the motor". At least, that is what I understand. It makes sense to me. Someone mentioned that the manufacturers silicone sealant is best. My buddy the 30 year mechanic agrees. Along his way of advancement he worked at a Toyota dealership (I think that is the one) and he still uses their stuff. I don't know if us normal human beings can get that or not but would be worth a try. I have never used the blue stuff, always the black stuff. It works for me and I have never found an oil pickup clogged, yet....

07-29-2007, 04:12 PM	#1 (permalink)
mcutlass1969 Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 59	Valley Pan Ok I am back to this 455 Valley Pan again. In using it do we use the edges as gasketso? If so just RTV above and below? If not which side do we add the intake gaskets? On the heads side or intake side?

07-30-2007, 04:01 AM	#2 (permalink)
Jim's rare 80 Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Posts: 208	If you are using the valley pan, it is the gasket. Use sealant around both sides of all openings. Don't use another gasket with the valley pan. It's one, or the other. Hope this helps. Jim. __________________

09-25-2007, 05:23 AM	#5 (permalink)
Oldsguy Administrator Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lees Summit MO Posts: 2,762	IF you do use the valley pan, practice inserting it dry, make sure you have it correct side to the front. You should follow the directions about not using silicone on the front and rear seals except for the corners, if you don't and add silicone to the bottom and top of the end gaskets they might slip off. Some people cut out the center section completely, I haven't in the past but did try it this time but haven't had the engine running yet to see if it leaks or not. I think next time I will follow 71 delta88guy's recommendation though. __________________ Dan '46 2 door

10-24-2007, 08:15 PM	#11 (permalink)
The_Jeremiah Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Posts: 242	woo wait im not quite understanding this. did you say cut the sides off where the it normally joins the manifold and head, and leave the main part of the valley pan ? can you do that ? where do i get this 4 piece mr gasket set you guys mentioned ? __________________ 69 Cutlass 4 door. Built 350 inside, grandma's grocery getter outside. Best sleeper in disguise.

10-25-2007, 05:00 AM	#13 (permalink)
Oldsguy Administrator Join Date: May 2004 Location: Lees Summit MO Posts: 2,762	He was saying TRIM the valley pan part so it doesn't bind or scrape the insides of the block "so it fits the motor". At least, that is what I understand. It makes sense to me. Someone mentioned that the manufacturers silicone sealant is best. My buddy the 30 year mechanic agrees. Along his way of advancement he worked at a Toyota dealership (I think that is the one) and he still uses their stuff. I don't know if us normal human beings can get that or not but would be worth a try. I have never used the blue stuff, always the black stuff. It works for me and I have never found an oil pickup clogged, yet.... __________________ Dan '46 2 door

08-05-2007, 01:14 AM	#3 (permalink)
caveman442 Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1	i use coppercote spray on those both sides

09-24-2007, 07:51 PM	#4 (permalink)
71 delta88guy Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 55	or better yet. screw the valley pan. Vacuum leaking,overpriced piece of junk it is. Go with the 4 piece gasket from mr. gasket. Nice thick port side,chuck the ends and use ultra black,ultra blue,or even better, use ford rtv designed for oil pans on the 7.3 diesel. It'll take 3 guys to get it off again if you ever have to and will never leak oil.

09-25-2007, 04:11 PM	#6 (permalink)
Olds64 Landyacht Club President Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Lawton, OK Posts: 1,224	JB Weld.

10-24-2007, 06:11 PM	#7 (permalink)
W30post Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 33	Just went through the intake gasket again on my W-30. This is a stock motor with factory aluminum intake. The advice I was given many times is cut the turkey tray so it fits in the motor and doesn't get in the way of the Mr. Gaskets intake seals. That keeps the hot oil off the bottom of the intake. Also make sure you retorque the Mr. Gasket seals. I didn't on the first try and it caused an exhaust leak at the intake to head surface. I was told to retorque after about 6 to 10 heat cycles of the motor until they completely stop compressing. I didn't use the end seals, just RTV. One last thing about either of the Mr. Gasket #404 or the Ultraseals, they do not have the exhaust port opened under the carb. You have to do that one yourself. I used the factory gasket for a template then cut away what wasn't needed. If you don't do this the car can be very anemic when cold if tuning is on the rich side. James

10-24-2007, 07:40 PM	#9 (permalink)
71 delta88guy Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Posts: 55	The regular blue rtv should not be sold anymore. It sucks! The addition of the ultra rtv's is so much better than the old and tired and sucky plain blue rtv it should be retired. Sick to death of prying it from oil pump srtainers by people who used it as described and had it break off and clog the oil pickup.Ultra grey is the best of the ultra's. Manufacturer rtv's are even better. Mitsubishi,nissan and ford/international have rtv's so much better than a gasket it's just sick. Try them.

10-24-2007, 08:41 PM	#12 (permalink)
soxfan Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5	You can get the #404 gaskets from just about any auto parts store. Most sell Mr. Gasket items. If you didn't want to go to an auto parts store you can call or buy the gaskets online from suppliers like Summit.

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