fly1

I saw a 4.5" stroke crankshaft from eagle for a BBO I have a bare block as well a a long block so I was thinking of stroking it to about 488cid. who here has done that and what kind of modifycations to the block had to be done and does it weaken the block or compromise the blocks intergrity

cutlassefi

Hit up Brian (507olds). He can tell you what you need to know.

64Rocket

Also "John " at Rocket Racing in Wisconsin
or
"Bill" at BTR Racing I believe in New York
Gene

cutlassefi

I guess a better question would be what is your budget/goals?

cutlassefi

Make sure he actually has it in stock and get the price in writing.

Rickman48

My nephew did it - Rocket Racing assembled the short block and did the machine work! Has been working the bugs out this summer - making a pass next year!
Tires he had on his 461 don't come close to holding it - he's afraid he's gonna break the 10's and need a cage!!
Only remember minor grinding for rod clearance - shoudn't weaken anything!

firefrost gold

go to highperformanceolds.com its Bill Travato's site you can get the Book Max performance olds it will talk about a lot of the things you are looking for and info. 20 -25 bucks on ebay .

507OLDS

The 495" strokers are becoming popular with the street/strip BBO. 4.185" bore with a 4.500" stroke.Very minimal clearancing needs done at the bottom of the block,and it will not weaken it,but only remove what you need.You can stroke a stock 455 crank to the 4.500" stroke as well,and they will hold-up fine.There is still debate about which crank is stronger,the Eagle cast or a factory N-crank,but if you get an Eagle,have it checked to make sure it is straight,and the journals are right.Don't just assume it's ready to run because it's new. The journals on the 4.500" stroke cranks,Eagle or N-crank,will have 2.200" BBC rod journals,thus letting you install a BBC rod.They make a 7.100" BBC rod,which is great for this combination.Bill has a piston available for this,from CP. Eagle was also offereing a complete assembly,with Mahle pistons,in +0.030(488) and +0.060(495). If you have a stock bore block,just go +0.030,and leave more meat in the cylinder walls for better ring seal,and better cooling.Then you have more cylinder to go oversize in the future.We don't have a cylinder head that flows enough to justify going any larger than 4.185" anyway.Not even the best aftermarkets.
The 507 is somewhat of a dinosaur now.It was built before any of these parts or kits were available,and not too many people were making stroker or big-cube Olds engines.It consists of a 4.211" bore,with a 4.550" stroke.I needed a perfect N-crank to get that little extra.The rods are 6.800" Eagle BBC,which were the longest available at the time.The pistons are Ross +0.060 455 Pontiac(4.211" bore),and they have the same .990" wrist pin bore as the BBC rods.Everything is/was off-the-shelf parts,and the N-crank was offset ground.In hindsight,the bore should have been 4.191",which is a Pontiac size,making a 501,or a 4.181" bore,making a 500.It was a fun engine to do,and runs great,but there are better ways to do this now.

fly1

It will be a street strip car but I have 2 blocks one is bare and the other is complete bumpy need the # 7 cylinder resleeved. So I am weighing out the options how I should go about the build the bare block will most likely be the block I use. As far as a budget this will most likely be a 4 to 5 yr project I don't spending money but don't like wasting money nor taking the engine back apart after its been assembled. But I'm giving myself a $6000 budget on the engine alone. I want to be able to spank some ls3.

380 Racer

IMHO I don't believe you can do it right for $6000.

firefrost gold

x2

507OLDS

I just finished in install last month of a 495" W30 "restoration" engine.It looks bone stock on the outside,but has the 495" rotating assembly.Bill at BTR built the engine.It started out as a good 70 455 core.

W30 replica intake
Q jet
Cast iron heads with stainless 2.072/1.710 valves with a little bowl blending, Solid bronze guides/ valve job/ 7/16 screw in studs
MLS head gaskets
CP Bullet pistons/7.100 H beam rods
4.185 x 4.500 stroke
Coated Clevite bearings
BTR multi hole timing chain set
ARP harware
Comp hydraulic roller 242/248/110
Harland Sharp rockers of course
OPP deep pan and pickup
Melling HV pump
ATI balancer
Steel flywheel

This engine made 442HP & 523FT-LBS with the stock WZ manifolds,and it made 482HP & 577FT-LBS with 1 7/8" headers. 93 octane pumpgas engine The cam is on the conservative side,since the car has AC,power brakes,etc.

That was $10k. No disappointments. No inflated dyno numbers.

fly1

Did the $10000 include assembly too

507OLDS

All machine work,parts,assembly & the dyno time,but NOT the installation into the car itself.

firefrost gold

Fly 1 were are you located ?

fly1

Im in San Antonio TX

507OLDS

Keith Steele is in Texas somewhere.He had Bill do his new engine as well.There are a few pictures of it in his book.

fly1

How much u guys spending on machine work most of the assembling I plan on doing myself

cutlassefi

Bore and Hone with torque plate $225.00
Balance $175.00
Align hone $175.00
Deck $150.00

Press pistons $8.00 each, recon rods $15.00 each.

Add $125.00 to bore with my BHJ plate. My guy is in Jax Fl.

fly1

That's sounds like good prices roughly $1000 for the block machining. So if I assemble my engine I think $6000 should get me where I want. If the block and crank and cam bearings are good and balanced I van take it from there.

cutlassefi

Imo don't trust the balance job done by Eagle, have it checked.

507OLDS

What about heads,cam,valvetrain? All that stuff adds up.Yes,you can save a few dollars by assembling it yourself,but still don't think you'll do it for $6k if we compare apples to apples.

citcapp

6K seems light to me for the completed deal. Intake, carb, headers, head work, ignition sytem, even if you buy edelbrocks heads you still need to do port work and their factory valve job is not the greatest. I'm thinking more like 8K from my research. Of course in Washington state all machining costs compared to other areas is 15 to 20% higher. Don't know why just is.

fly1

Ok I see where your coming from the $6000 is not including carb, headers, ignition or accessories or dyno testing. I'm figuring $6000 for long block with edelbrock heads ported and different valves and springs. everything else I either have or can or still debating how I should go. but this is a project that will most likely take a few years

toro68

Fly,
I PMed you a phone number of an Olds buddy of mine, so you can pick his brain.

sx455raidercelticfan

im stroking a 455 with eagle crank,rods and mahle pistons, i just had it checked and ballanced they ground it 10 on main and rods and it was brand new, shop around for your parts its cheaper than buying a kit!! i got the 4500 crank for like 450 shipped, 325 for the 7100 rods and 600 for the mahle pistons, it wont be done for 3-6 months and i figure its going 2 cost 9-12, im going with cnc ported edelbrock heads and full roller, all the little parts add up just the flywheel and damper was around 750 and that was with cheaper parts, a cheap oil pump was 350! it adds up FAST!! ill post pics as soon as the short block is assembled

507OLDS

Take your time & do what you can.Do a little,then regroup,then do a little more.Sounds like you will do that anyway.

citcapp

Shopping around and taking time to collect parts is more then worth the effort. I spent the last 2 years collecting parts for my current 455 build that is now in the machine shop. Pistons, rods, Edelbrock heads, roller rockers, intake manifold, cam, etc, all bought through members on this site, on the Hamb Site and on ROP from builds not completed or when they changed their minds on the direction their builds. Saved 2K or better on new parts alone. Only thing bought so far new is the oil pan, pump, pickup, windage tray, timing chain, and ARP main stud and head stud kits. Still I will be around 5K on the build and its not a stroker.

fly1

I'm still not 100% sure if ill stroke it or not but I'm definitely leaning that way. I just like being able to use a tighter converter and a taller rear gear if it pulls a good low end torque number. With a overdrive I can cruise and mash out.

fly1

By the way happy new years to everybody

panos

I dont really think you need to stroke it you can get decent tq numbers with a well build 455,just for reference my 461 has 500+tq at around 3600rpm. Ofcourse more cubes is always good

fly1

I talked to some machine shops not sure i feel comfortable with them. Anybody know a good olds machine shop in tx. Or should I ship my block of to btr or dick miller

cutlassefi

Or you can ship it to my guy in Jax Fl., certainly closer than BTR. He has my BHJ/Olds Bor-Tru plate, a Torque plate and has done a half dozen or so Olds blocks just for me in the last couple years.

I highly recommend him.

fly1

What's your guys name and number

cutlassefi

Mark Hedrick of Horsepower by Hedrick Jax, Fl
904-771-2739
http://webcache.googleusercontent.co...edrick&ct=clnk

Tell him I sent you.

Mark Remmel

dsa2207

I have a 496 ci in the car in my avatar and it's a real tire blaster.

firefrost gold

what kind of specks on that 496 ?

/

dsa2207

4.185 bore, 4.500 stroke 6.800 rod

firefrost gold

how about the other stuff heads, intake , cam , headers or not, Did you
build it or who did thanks

dsa2207

I do not remember the cam specs but it's a very conservative street grind for torque. Stock big valve E heads, stock cast iron intake, quadrajet, W/Z manifolds, 3:23 posi, 2,400 stall converter. This car has A/C, Power windows, brakes and steering. Actually the 3:23 gear is way too much for this torque monster.