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#1 (permalink) |
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Member
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Distributor Stuck in the Block
Does anybody have a good idea about breaking a distributor loose in the engine block? I bought a Pertronix Ignition that I'm ready to install and can't get the dist. out, which kinda prevents adjusting the timing too! I have soaked it with PB Blaster for 2 days, smacked at it lightly with a hammer and tried lifting it w/a few different leverage arms. Nothing!
This is in the car, so it's not sitting on a stand where I can really get at it. HELP! ![]() |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 806
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Pipe wrench...wrap the distributor shaft with a shop towel first...pop it with a rubber mallet while you turn it.
C.J.
__________________
Home of the 1971 Cutlass Supreme convertible Super Karate Monkey Death Car. ![]()
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#3 (permalink) |
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Member
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That should do it! I'm anxious to see if I've got enough clearance between the block and the firewall to get enough movement in there. But there's one way to find out! Thanks!
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 66
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I usualy take the drivers valve cover off and lay a crowbar across the cyl. head and under the distributer and work it out dont force it.
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 481
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Is this in one of your 394s? I did the Pertronix thing in my '62 last summer. My buddy had a heck of a time getting the distributor out. He was on hands and knees on top of the motor yanking on it. I don't know what he did, but it finally came loose. Keep trying.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Member
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Kool ideas! It's in there pretty good, and I'll probably try all of these and a few more that haven't been thought up yet!
Yeah, it's on the 394 in my '62 Dynamic. Before I bought this car, I didn't realize that they made a low compression 394 in '62. It's painted the same turquoise as the 394 in my '60. Well, let's see what happens when I do this....... |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Seattle
Posts: 66
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You know that its just a ring of dirt thats holdiing it in right. just keep worling it up and down it will eventualy come out.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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on my 455...
I had the same problem on my 455. It was very tough even with the engine on a stand. Basically you needed to be able to twist it back and forth and spray lube in the cracks where the distributor mates to the manifold. I used the proper wrench to get leverage. Once that was free I started to twist and lift at the same time working it up and down 1/4" at a time until the lube had a chance to do its magic. Force it and you'll probably break it, patience is key. Took me about 35mins to get mine out. I cleaned it up and painted it and its as good as new.
-Justin |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Member
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That's what I ended up doing. My engine is still in the car, so I had to remove the intake manifold to get room for leverage. I soaked it in PB for a few days, then used a little Bernzomatic w/a pipe wrench and it came right out. After a quick cleaning and paint (and electronic ignition) it's as good as new!
Hey what color were these distributors originally? Black? Dk. Grey? It was rusty enough that I couldn't tell. |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 8
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...color
I just painted mine with that aluminum spray-can stuff thats rated for hi-temp engine detail. but maybe its suppose to be a different color?!?!?
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#11 (permalink) |
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Member
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I'm all about hot rodding/kustomizing, but I'm a slave to restoration, and that usually wins out. I like to see how things looked back then when they were new.
Just like the stupid aqua green engine paint for the 394s! It seems impossible to get, unless I go to the paint store and have them mix up some enamel for me. Lasts longer anyway. But that hitemp stuff is great on smaller parts and looks right too! |
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