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Thanks for the quick reply, does it plug into this on the air cleaner? I have a plugged line on the back of the carb, could that work ok for the ram air flapper?
Unfortunately, without a photo we don't know which carb port you are talking about. The vacuum actuator on the snorkel and the O.A.I. actuators all connect to straight manifold vacuum, as do the transmission modulator, power brakes, and A/C (if so equipped). Any port on the carb or manifold that provides straight manifold vacuum (NOT ported vacuum) will work.
My post above wasn't very descriptive. The hose connection for the choke fresh air inlet is on the top rear of the carburetor and it pulls filtered air from under the air cleaner.
Morning guys, i took a pic of the choke white connector. I see on the pic posted it went in the intake originally. Any idea where it should go on the performer intake? Would this make my engine cut out under acceleration when it warms up which it is doing?
That's actually a metal tube - the "white" appears to be corrosion.
The tube simply directs hot air into the choke housing to operate the bimetallic choke coil and operate the choke. It simply needs a warm air source to heat the air prior to being sucked into the choke housing. There are aftermarket choke stove kits that clamp to the exhaust manifold or headers.
Alternately, replace the hot air choke coil with an electric one and eliminate the need for the hot air stove.
Hi, I'll look at what's involved in the electric choke option. Do you think this could be one possibility of my cutout hard acceleration? Appreciate all your replies!!
An electric choke coil is simple to install. Remove the existing coil, remove the ring gasket so the electric coil has a good ground, install the electric coil, cap off the air tube port, and connect a 12 Volt wire to the coil. I ran a wire from the IGN terminal in the center of the fuse box to the choke coil, but there are many other ways to connect power to the choke coil.
With the white tube not attached to anything you have an open vacuum leak, you can probably feel suction at idle. It will certainly cause idle/ off idle stumble. If you convert to electric make sure you block the vacuum passage to the choke housing, the electric choke doesn't use a gasket so just capping the white line fitting may not stop the leak. Good luck.
With the white tube not attached to anything you have an open vacuum leak, you can probably feel suction at idle. It will certainly cause idle/ off idle stumble.
I'm gonna have to disagree with that. Even with the choke tubing connected as from the factory, there is a "vacuum leak" due to the choke pulling air freely through the port on the top rear of the carburetor. It's not gonna be any different than the choke tube being disconnected as in the picture.
I'm gonna have to disagree with that. Even with the choke tubing connected as from the factory, there is a "vacuum leak" due to the choke pulling air freely through the port on the top rear of the carburetor. It's not gonna be any different than the choke tube being disconnected as in the picture.
^^^THIS! The choke and carb are DESIGNED to have this "vacuum leak" - that's how the choke draws heated air past the coil. Normally, this tube connects to a port on the top rear of the carb, after passing through the exhaust crossover in the intake. That port is above the carb venturies and open to atmosphere. The only difference is that normally the air drawn through the tube is filtered and now it is not. That's the only difference.
March 1st, 2017, 01:10 PM
