455 cam choice review
#1
455 cam choice review
Im starting to look up parts for my 69 455 build.
Street engine/ cruise night build, aftermarket intake and carb, headers, big valve heads.
I always over cam for that loud lopey intimidation but this time im trying to go milder. Only going to run a 2500 stall max.
Im looking at this Lunati:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10420312.
I have ran all the Comp Cams magnum series and am tired of them, I thought about the Edelbrock Performer but it looks a little too close to boring stock.
Street engine/ cruise night build, aftermarket intake and carb, headers, big valve heads.
I always over cam for that loud lopey intimidation but this time im trying to go milder. Only going to run a 2500 stall max.
Im looking at this Lunati:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10420312.
I have ran all the Comp Cams magnum series and am tired of them, I thought about the Edelbrock Performer but it looks a little too close to boring stock.
#4
#6
I'd do an Erson Hi Flow 1 (228/228@.050, .500 lift on both), either on a 110 or 112, depending on the gear and ultimate goal.
Thanks.
Thanks.
#7
But would the Lunati be a good choice for a " get in and drive cam" Like I said Im trying to go milder than usual so driving the car is not miserable.
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...8-023c8abd501f
http://redirect.viglink.com/?format=...8-023c8abd501f
#9
I tend to over cam but make them run very good but loud and 3500 stalls are not always the best driving choice! Im building a very nice mild driving engine because our cruises we go to are app. 40 mins one way and mostly highway driving, just getting older I guess. Thank you for your help.
#11
The Lunati 214 224 .472 .496 112 has gotten one person into the 11s. The lack of overlap gives it high vacuum and high mileage and a low idle speed. Cams do make a difference.
Now, for ultra quiet enjoyment you might try these.
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb...php?f=3&t=5852
And, for even more quiet, think about a 700R or a 200R4 cutting the rpms way back, by about 20% in overdrive. Put these 3 together it should be civilized and awfully fast.
Now, for ultra quiet enjoyment you might try these.
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb...php?f=3&t=5852
And, for even more quiet, think about a 700R or a 200R4 cutting the rpms way back, by about 20% in overdrive. Put these 3 together it should be civilized and awfully fast.
#14
The Lunati 214 224 .472 .496 112 has gotten one person into the 11s. The lack of overlap gives it high vacuum and high mileage and a low idle speed. Cams do make a difference.
Now, for ultra quiet enjoyment you might try these.
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb...php?f=3&t=5852
And, for even more quiet, think about a 700R or a 200R4 cutting the rpms way back, by about 20% in overdrive. Put these 3 together it should be civilized and awfully fast.
Now, for ultra quiet enjoyment you might try these.
http://highperformanceolds.com/phpbb...php?f=3&t=5852
And, for even more quiet, think about a 700R or a 200R4 cutting the rpms way back, by about 20% in overdrive. Put these 3 together it should be civilized and awfully fast.
#15
Many vendors sell this cam under different names. Melling sold it 20 years ago when I installed it in my 1972 W-30 4 speed car. I have had it in another 455 as well. Works well in many applications but there are better choices based on your vehicle specifics and intended use.
Now I have one new in its Edelbrock box, in my garage, just in case I want to try it in mine for some reason. The one I chose for mine has a little more duration (222-230) and narrower LSA (110), but I also have a little more compression then most, and I am way way lighter under 3000 lbs, with a 200r with a 3.5 gear in back, and injected. I am also running 1.7 roller rockers, which makes it behave a little more like a roller. It is also quite a bit less duration than what I ran for years.
Larger prices and durations does not mean faster, and in fact can be not as fast. Race cars sound like they do because they are race cars, with race car demands, and weights, and gears, equipment, and RPMs. And price tags.
Camshafts dictate where the power will be in the rpms, and bigger durations may sound tough with lots of escaping explosive pressures (overlap) yet go slower. Its like Flowmasters versus reality, or show versus go. Price versus benefits.
Just my take, that smaller and cheaper cams are better for the price and will actually be faster, especially with long strokes and small bores of the 455 or greater.
#16
Yes, Elgin and others also have it. I weigh many factors on something like this, such as it durability and pluses and minuses in actual driving on the street. It will fit most driving styles and actual compression ratios people will actually have.
Now I have one new in its Edelbrock box, in my garage, just in case I want to try it in mine for some reason. The one I chose for mine has a little more duration (222-230) That's a Crane grind, not Edelbrock and narrower LSA (110), but I also have a little more compression then most, and I am way way lighter under 3000 lbs, with a 200r with a 3.5 gear in back, and injected. I am also running 1.7 roller rockers, which makes it behave a little more like a roller. Not really, roller profiles actually start out slower vs a flat tappet It is also quite a bit less duration than what I ran for years.
Larger prices and durations does not mean faster, and in fact can be not as fast. Race cars sound like they do because they are race cars, with race car demands, and weights, and gears, equipment, and RPMs. And price tags.
Camshafts dictate where the power will be in the rpms, and bigger durations may sound tough with lots of escaping explosive pressures (overlap) yet go slower. Its like Flowmasters versus reality, or show versus go. Price versus benefits.
Just my take, that smaller and cheaper cams are better for the price and will actually be faster, especially with long strokes and small bores of the 455 or greater.
Now I have one new in its Edelbrock box, in my garage, just in case I want to try it in mine for some reason. The one I chose for mine has a little more duration (222-230) That's a Crane grind, not Edelbrock and narrower LSA (110), but I also have a little more compression then most, and I am way way lighter under 3000 lbs, with a 200r with a 3.5 gear in back, and injected. I am also running 1.7 roller rockers, which makes it behave a little more like a roller. Not really, roller profiles actually start out slower vs a flat tappet It is also quite a bit less duration than what I ran for years.
Larger prices and durations does not mean faster, and in fact can be not as fast. Race cars sound like they do because they are race cars, with race car demands, and weights, and gears, equipment, and RPMs. And price tags.
Camshafts dictate where the power will be in the rpms, and bigger durations may sound tough with lots of escaping explosive pressures (overlap) yet go slower. Its like Flowmasters versus reality, or show versus go. Price versus benefits.
Just my take, that smaller and cheaper cams are better for the price and will actually be faster, especially with long strokes and small bores of the 455 or greater.
#18
custom cam
http://www.englecams.com/downloads/2...le_catalog.pdf
I have the 18/20 in the 455 in my '80 GMC & the 22/25 in the 455 in my '65 442. Engle cams were always good but the cam designs are old. You can do considerably better with modern grinds.
Talk to Mark (CutlassEFI) about a custom ground cam based on your entire drivetrain combination & you will be much further ahead.
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