455 No Oil Pressure

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Old December 12th, 2016, 05:30 AM
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455 No Oil Pressure

So I had a very small oil leak. I put tracer dye in the oil only to find out it was another rope seal that failed. So I pulled the motor and replaced the rope seal with a new rubber seal as so many people here recommend. The job went very smooth rope seal came out rubber seal went in no problem. Put the engine back together dropped it in the car and attempted to prime the oil system with my drill and sure enough no oil pressure. I removed the oil filter and put the drill on the pump again and oil came out like an oil well. I though I had got a bad oil filter so I put the filter I took off the engine back on. I installed it empty so I could see if the filter would fill on it's own from the drill turning. It did fill I removed it and had oil everywhere. However still no oil to the oil gauge port or no oil to the rockers.
Any thoughts would be appreciated


Thanks Jim
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Old December 12th, 2016, 06:11 AM
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Are you spinning the drill the right direction?Try switching.
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Old December 12th, 2016, 06:16 AM
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Yes . And the pump is pumping to fill the filter
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Old December 12th, 2016, 06:18 AM
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Did you somehow cover one of the passages between the rear main bearing cap and the block?

- Eric
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Old December 12th, 2016, 07:42 AM
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Eric I believe your right somewhere a passage is blocked but I'm not sure what I could have done to cause that. unless a piece from a gasket or something fell where I couldn't see it. Is there an oil passage between the main cap and the block? My fear is now that I need to pull the motor again to find the problem. I'm not sure what I can do with the motor in the car.
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Old December 12th, 2016, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Sea five
Is there an oil passage between the main cap and the block?
The oil pump bolts to the rear main bearing cap, and the rear main bearing cap bolts to the block.

There are passages from the pump to the block through the bearing cap.

You had to remove the bearing cap (and not much else) in order to change the rear main seal.

Therefore, the problem is most likely to be in this area.

The path of oil through the rear galleries is illustrated here:




You can see that if you are filling the oil filter, the path through the bearing cap itself must be clear, BUT if something were pushed into the right hand main bearing screw hole, and the screw were torqued down, the foreign material could be pushed forward into the gallery, which is a continuation of the screw hole.

You didn't remove the oil filter base from the block, did you?



Originally Posted by Sea five
... I'm not sure what I could have done to cause that. unless a piece from a gasket or something fell where I couldn't see it...
My fear is now that I need to pull the motor again to find the problem.
Depending on your preferences, you could disconnect the motor mounts (and probably the exhaust), raise the motor remove the oil pan, remove the bearing cap, and have a look. If there is anything in there that you can grab or see, you're all set.
If there was nothing to see or grab, you could also try removing the oil pressure sender and running compressed air into the hole, with the area under the rear of the engine well provided with dropcloths, and see whether you could blow anything out.

I don't have any better suggestions at this point - maybe someone else who has seen this problem has some.

- Eric
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Old December 12th, 2016, 08:12 AM
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To be sure your spinning CCW correct? It can take 5 mins to circulate the oil completely.

When you pulled the engine did you do any other work or just replace the rope seal?
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Old December 12th, 2016, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
The oil pump bolts to the rear main bearing cap, and the rear main bearing cap bolts to the block.

There are passages from the pump to the block through the bearing cap.

You had to remove the bearing cap (and not much else) in order to change the rear main seal.

Therefore, the problem is most likely to be in this area.

The path of oil through the rear galleries is illustrated here:




You can see that if you are filling the oil filter, the path through the bearing cap itself must be clear, BUT if something were pushed into the right hand main bearing screw hole, and the screw were torqued down, the foreign material could be pushed forward into the gallery, which is a continuation of the screw hole.

You didn't remove the oil filter base from the block, did you?





Depending on your preferences, you could disconnect the motor mounts (and probably the exhaust), raise the motor remove the oil pan, remove the bearing cap, and have a look. If there is anything in there that you can grab or see, you're all set.
If there was nothing to see or grab, you could also try removing the oil pressure sender and running compressed air into the hole, with the area under the rear of the engine well provided with dropcloths, and see whether you could blow anything out.

I don't have any better suggestions at this point - maybe someone else who has seen this problem has some.

- Eric

Thanks Eric Ill get back at it. ill put the filer back on and try a little compressed air maybe i'll luck out. I don't think I can get the pan off with the engine in the car
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Old December 12th, 2016, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
To be sure your spinning CCW correct? It can take 5 mins to circulate the oil completely.

When you pulled the engine did you do any other work or just replace the rope seal?

I am spinning CCW. I did no other work except change the seal


Thanks for your input
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Old December 12th, 2016, 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by Sea five
ill put the filer back on and try a little compressed air maybe i'll luck out.
If there's a foreign object in the gallery, I wouldn't expect it to make the 90° turn and blow out through the filter base - I'd think you would have to have at least the right hand rear main cap screw out, so it could go in a straight line.

- Eric
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Old December 13th, 2016, 05:49 AM
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Thanks for your help Eric I'll get back to this on the weekend
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