[jimjr]

I opened up my switch and found a set of contacts were burned & pitted. I cleaned all cotacts & used lamp grease on them. I epoxied the housing back together and reinstalled the sw. assembly onto the firewall & hooked up the throttle linkage. I then adjusted ("calibrated", as the manual states) the switch and gave it a try. The switch still acted funky, sometimes the variable-vane worked, sometimes not. The same goes for the kick-down. I wired two dash-mounted 12V lamps to the outputs of the kick-down switch (one=stator/variable-vane & the other=detent/kick-down). If the stator light comes on at lower speeds, it only stays on for a second or two, then shuts off. I feel no noticeable change in the torque converter no matter if the light is on or off. When I go to wide-open throttle, most of the time I get no kick-down (power downshift). But when it does kick in, both the stator and detent lights come on and I get the downshift. I'm not sure if both are supposed to operate at the same time or if they were designed to work independently. Any feedback???