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Oldsfan · 01-07-2007, 10:18 AM

I am confused.

Your first post says that this was an issue before the suspension overhaul. This last post says the car sat level before the overhaul. Which is it?

If this was not an issue before the overhaul, how 'bout re-installing the old springs to see what you have? But if this was an issue even with the old springs, then this is a waste of time.

I'm curious to know what the "carrying height" is. This is the measurement given in the shop manual. Measured from the bottom surface of the frame, at the kick up over the axle, right outside of the stop bumper, to the top of the axle housing tube. Should be between 5 13/16" to 6 9/16". Shop manual doesn't give a side to side variance, so I don't know if they mean this 3/4" range is acceptable from side to side on one vehicle, or it if acceptable from vehicle to vehicle.

I do not think you will get an accurate reading by measuring from the rear frame rails to the ground. Here's why:

When I changed the springs on my '62, I left out the front spring spacers that were in the lower control arms. They weren't factory and nobody else I knew had them. When I was done the car had quite a rake that I was unhappy with. I emailed my buddy, who has a '62 that sits nice and asked for some measurements. I got the front bumper to ground, and front wheel opening to ground, both of which were shorter on my car. I got rear wheel opening to ground, which was about comparable with what I had. And I got rear bumper to ground, which was quite a bit taller on my car.

Now, see where I'm goin' with this? What's goin' on up front has quite a bit to do with whats goin' on in the rear because of the fulcrum effect. Lower the front - body and frame pivot on the rear axle - rear-most back end raises. And vice versa, like using a bumper jack - raise one end and the other end lowers. Anything you do at the front pivots on the rear wheels, and the other way around.

And you've mentioned that there is an issue with the front end - not much of an issue, but an issue. Now, what do you think that minor front end issue is doing 17 feet away on the opposite side of the car?

How 'bout you do this - take your frame to ground measurements the way it sits. Now have Dad put some weight on the front corner opposite your rear high side. It got even higher, didn't it? And an even bigger difference side to side. How have Dad switch sides. Your high side came down, didn't it? And you're other side went up? And they might even be equal, or tolerably close? Better yet, use that bumper jack I mentioned. You know how much your front measurement is out and which side. Use the bumper jack to even out the front end. What happened at the rear?

I'm starting to think your issue is really in the front, but is showing most in the rear.

Oh, and I had to put the spacers back in the front control arms. And I am the only guy I know who has 'em. Dunno why...

Paul

01-07-2007, 10:18 AM	#8 (permalink)
Oldsfan Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Posts: 427	I am confused. Your first post says that this was an issue before the suspension overhaul. This last post says the car sat level before the overhaul. Which is it? If this was not an issue before the overhaul, how 'bout re-installing the old springs to see what you have? But if this was an issue even with the old springs, then this is a waste of time. I'm curious to know what the "carrying height" is. This is the measurement given in the shop manual. Measured from the bottom surface of the frame, at the kick up over the axle, right outside of the stop bumper, to the top of the axle housing tube. Should be between 5 13/16" to 6 9/16". Shop manual doesn't give a side to side variance, so I don't know if they mean this 3/4" range is acceptable from side to side on one vehicle, or it if acceptable from vehicle to vehicle. I do not think you will get an accurate reading by measuring from the rear frame rails to the ground. Here's why: When I changed the springs on my '62, I left out the front spring spacers that were in the lower control arms. They weren't factory and nobody else I knew had them. When I was done the car had quite a rake that I was unhappy with. I emailed my buddy, who has a '62 that sits nice and asked for some measurements. I got the front bumper to ground, and front wheel opening to ground, both of which were shorter on my car. I got rear wheel opening to ground, which was about comparable with what I had. And I got rear bumper to ground, which was quite a bit taller on my car. Now, see where I'm goin' with this? What's goin' on up front has quite a bit to do with whats goin' on in the rear because of the fulcrum effect. Lower the front - body and frame pivot on the rear axle - rear-most back end raises. And vice versa, like using a bumper jack - raise one end and the other end lowers. Anything you do at the front pivots on the rear wheels, and the other way around. And you've mentioned that there is an issue with the front end - not much of an issue, but an issue. Now, what do you think that minor front end issue is doing 17 feet away on the opposite side of the car? How 'bout you do this - take your frame to ground measurements the way it sits. Now have Dad put some weight on the front corner opposite your rear high side. It got even higher, didn't it? And an even bigger difference side to side. How have Dad switch sides. Your high side came down, didn't it? And you're other side went up? And they might even be equal, or tolerably close? Better yet, use that bumper jack I mentioned. You know how much your front measurement is out and which side. Use the bumper jack to even out the front end. What happened at the rear? I'm starting to think your issue is really in the front, but is showing most in the rear. Oh, and I had to put the spacers back in the front control arms. And I am the only guy I know who has 'em. Dunno why... Paul