W30 Verified!!! Still attached to rear seat.
December 5th, 2015, 04:57 PM
#81
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December 5th, 2015, 06:37 PM
#82
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December 5th, 2015, 09:02 PM
#83
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Trans and shifter setup - looks like these were transferred over from a '69 H/O.
Carpet - That's the original carpet in your car...or I guess it could be original to whatever H/O donated the trans and shifter. In any case, the "Fraser" tag is an original style tag/carpet. KEEP IT if it's in decent shape. Carpets can be re-colored with dye, etc.
"Clips" in spare tire discussion - If your car came with the steel wheels and pie pan/poverty cap/dog dish hubcaps originally then it WON'T HAVE THE "CLIPS" that Chad is referring to.
Cars with the steelie wheel/poverty cap option had the tire tool mounted under the spare with the jack. The tire tool was held onto the jack shaft with 2 rubber sleeves.
The clips, for some reason, were added when the car had the SSI or SSII wheel option and I guess they considered it a "luxury" to have ready access to the separately mounted tire tool (maybe this was also called the "be ready to get in a fight" option....just pop the trunk and GRAB YOUR CONVENIENTLY LOCATED TIRE TOOL IN THOSE "EMERGENCY" SITUATIONS!!!")
Your car's spare tire "situation" - the sticker on the underside of the trunklid that shows your jack stowage/spare tire indicates that the car was originally a steel wheel/poverty cap car. The XT wheel that you have as a spare was likely one of the 5 on the car when it was sold new. Your sticker says, in part..."F85 Trunk"...that's the sticker that was used on the steelie wheel/poverty cap-equipped cars. SSI and SSII-equipped cars got a different sticker that said "Specialty Wheel Stowage" or something to that effect.
Carpet - That's the original carpet in your car...or I guess it could be original to whatever H/O donated the trans and shifter. In any case, the "Fraser" tag is an original style tag/carpet. KEEP IT if it's in decent shape. Carpets can be re-colored with dye, etc.
"Clips" in spare tire discussion - If your car came with the steel wheels and pie pan/poverty cap/dog dish hubcaps originally then it WON'T HAVE THE "CLIPS" that Chad is referring to.
Cars with the steelie wheel/poverty cap option had the tire tool mounted under the spare with the jack. The tire tool was held onto the jack shaft with 2 rubber sleeves.
The clips, for some reason, were added when the car had the SSI or SSII wheel option and I guess they considered it a "luxury" to have ready access to the separately mounted tire tool (maybe this was also called the "be ready to get in a fight" option....just pop the trunk and GRAB YOUR CONVENIENTLY LOCATED TIRE TOOL IN THOSE "EMERGENCY" SITUATIONS!!!")
Your car's spare tire "situation" - the sticker on the underside of the trunklid that shows your jack stowage/spare tire indicates that the car was originally a steel wheel/poverty cap car. The XT wheel that you have as a spare was likely one of the 5 on the car when it was sold new. Your sticker says, in part..."F85 Trunk"...that's the sticker that was used on the steelie wheel/poverty cap-equipped cars. SSI and SSII-equipped cars got a different sticker that said "Specialty Wheel Stowage" or something to that effect.
Last edited by 70Post; December 6th, 2015 at 11:14 AM.
December 6th, 2015, 04:32 AM
#84
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Trans and shifter setup - looks like these were transferred over from a '69 H/O.
Carpet - That's the original carpet in your car...or I guess it could be original to whatever H/O donated the trans and shifter. In any case, the "Fraser" tag is an original style tag/carpet. KEEP IT if it's in decent shape. Carpets can be re-colored with dye, etc.
"Clips" in spare tire discussion - If your car came with the steel wheels and pie pan/poverty cap/dog dish hubcaps originally then it WON'T HAVE THE "CLIPS" that Chad is referring to.
Cars with the steelie wheel/poverty cap option had the tire tool mounted under the spare with the jack. The tire tool was held onto the jack shaft with 2 rubber sleeves.
The clips, for some reason, were added when the car had the SSI or SSII wheel option and I guess they considered it a "luxury" to have ready access to the separately mounted tire tool (maybe this was also called the "be ready to get in a fight" option....just pop the trunk and GRAB YOUR CONVENIENTLY LOCATED TIRE TOOL IN THOSE "EMERGENCY" SITUATIONS!!!")
Your car's spare tire "situation" - the sticker on the underside of the trunklid that shows your jack stowage/spare tire indicates that the car was originally a steel wheel/poverty cap car. The XT wheel that you have as a spare was likely one of the 5 on the car when it was sold new. Your sticker says, in part..."F85 Wheel Stowage"...that's the sticker that was used on the steelie wheel/poverty cap-equipped cars. SSI and SSII-equipped cars got a different sticker that said "Specialty Wheel Stowage".
Carpet - That's the original carpet in your car...or I guess it could be original to whatever H/O donated the trans and shifter. In any case, the "Fraser" tag is an original style tag/carpet. KEEP IT if it's in decent shape. Carpets can be re-colored with dye, etc.
"Clips" in spare tire discussion - If your car came with the steel wheels and pie pan/poverty cap/dog dish hubcaps originally then it WON'T HAVE THE "CLIPS" that Chad is referring to.
Cars with the steelie wheel/poverty cap option had the tire tool mounted under the spare with the jack. The tire tool was held onto the jack shaft with 2 rubber sleeves.
The clips, for some reason, were added when the car had the SSI or SSII wheel option and I guess they considered it a "luxury" to have ready access to the separately mounted tire tool (maybe this was also called the "be ready to get in a fight" option....just pop the trunk and GRAB YOUR CONVENIENTLY LOCATED TIRE TOOL IN THOSE "EMERGENCY" SITUATIONS!!!")
Your car's spare tire "situation" - the sticker on the underside of the trunklid that shows your jack stowage/spare tire indicates that the car was originally a steel wheel/poverty cap car. The XT wheel that you have as a spare was likely one of the 5 on the car when it was sold new. Your sticker says, in part..."F85 Wheel Stowage"...that's the sticker that was used on the steelie wheel/poverty cap-equipped cars. SSI and SSII-equipped cars got a different sticker that said "Specialty Wheel Stowage".
If you have any tips on what to clean these seats with, I could sure use them. I'm sure some of today's cleaners aren't compatible with seating this old. I'm waiting until I hear back on this because I don't want to screw this up.
I didn't know there were two versions of the stickers for the wheel stowage. So that pretty much confirms that it was a steelie/cap car. No wonder he had those E-T wheels on it, the same thing many kids do today when they buy the cars with the cheapest wheels on them, go out and replace with custom. Anyway, I do like all styles of the wheels offered that year, I really don't have a favorite. But I just gave the E-T wheels back to my mother in law and told her to sell them. There are still people out there looking for vintage E-T stuff believe it or not.
December 6th, 2015, 05:00 AM
#85
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Actually I have a question on something else now. The inside of my trunk is painted the body color and yours isn't, what determined if this was done or not?
Last edited by 70-442-W30; December 6th, 2015 at 05:02 AM.
December 6th, 2015, 05:41 AM
#86
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See here: https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post769701
December 6th, 2015, 11:35 AM
#87
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His trunk IS painted body color (see the body color on the lip of the trunk w/strip channel). What is different is just the pattern/application of the factory trunk splatter paint that was applied ON TOP of the body color. The areas covered with the trunk paint BY THE FACTORIES varied a bit. Remember, this was being sprayed on by a human and some of them decided to use a more "minimalist" approach while others seemed to be more thorough in the application. On his car whoever was spraying apparently decided to do the latter. On yours.....the "minimalist" dude must have been spraying trunk paint that day. Since a trunk mat covered a lot of the area they weren't always super concerned about getting the trunk paint ALL OVER the trunk surfaces.
I edited my posting on the "Jack Stowage" sticker above to correct some wording I had used. I originally said "F85 Wheel Stowage" or something like that but the sticker reads "F85 Trunk" so I changed it to reflect that so no confusion occurs.
Seat Cleaning - Get a can of "Tuff Stuff" spray vinyl/interior cleaner (or something similar) and a good soft nylon bristle brush. Spray on sections and scrub, wipe off with a water soaked towel and then a dry towel. Repeat as necessary. I like wiping off the cleaners with the water soaked towel to remove any soap residue instead of wiping the cleaner off with just a dry towel (which might leave some residue).
Just don't use any of the newer "super" type cleaners like Purple Power, etc....those are made for greases and oils and are fairly aggressive (they'll remove paints in some cases). They seem to be a bit caustic and contain sodium silicate (or something like that)....whatever it is, the chemical makes those type cleaners too aggressive for using on the interior surfaces.
Last edited by 70Post; December 6th, 2015 at 09:30 PM.
December 6th, 2015, 12:00 PM
#88
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His trunk IS painted body color (see the body color on the lip of the trunk w/strip channel). What is different is just the pattern/application of the factory trunk splatter paint that was applied ON TOP of the body color. The areas covered with the trunk paint BY THE FACTORIES varied a bit. Remember, this was being sprayed on by a human and some of them decided to use a more "minimalist" approach while others seemed to be more thorough in the application. On his car whoever was spraying apparently decided to do the latter. On yours.....the "minimalist" dude must have been spraying trunk paint that day. Since a trunk mat covered a lot of the area they weren't always super concerned about getting the trunk paint ALL OVER the trunk surfaces.
I edited my posting on the "Jack Stowage" sticker above to correct some wording I had used. I originally said "F85 Wheel Stowage" or something like that but the sticker reads "F85 Trunk" so I changed it to reflect that so no confusion occurs.
Seat Cleaning - Get a can of "Tuff Stuff" spray vinyl/interior cleaner (or something similar) and a good soft nylon bristle brush. Spray on sections and scrub, wipe off with a water soaked towel and the a dry towel. Repeat as necessary. I like wiping off the cleaners with the water soaked towel to remove any soap residue instead of wiping the cleaner off with just a dry towel (which might leave some residue).
Just don't use any of the newer "super" type cleaners like Purple Power, etc....those are made for greases and oils and are fairly aggressive (they'll remove paints in some cases). They seem to be a bit caustic and contain sodium silicate (or something like that)....whatever it is, the chemical makes those type cleaners too aggressive for using on the interior surfaces.
I edited my posting on the "Jack Stowage" sticker above to correct some wording I had used. I originally said "F85 Wheel Stowage" or something like that but the sticker reads "F85 Trunk" so I changed it to reflect that so no confusion occurs.
Seat Cleaning - Get a can of "Tuff Stuff" spray vinyl/interior cleaner (or something similar) and a good soft nylon bristle brush. Spray on sections and scrub, wipe off with a water soaked towel and the a dry towel. Repeat as necessary. I like wiping off the cleaners with the water soaked towel to remove any soap residue instead of wiping the cleaner off with just a dry towel (which might leave some residue).
Just don't use any of the newer "super" type cleaners like Purple Power, etc....those are made for greases and oils and are fairly aggressive (they'll remove paints in some cases). They seem to be a bit caustic and contain sodium silicate (or something like that)....whatever it is, the chemical makes those type cleaners too aggressive for using on the interior surfaces.
I always liked Tuff Stuff and the smell of it. Glad I can use it here too. Nice tip on the water soaked towel too.
I know you sell the gas tank mats, so can you take a peek at my post and give me your opinion on the one I have? It seems like it could get a bit crumbly. To my surprise there is a few gallons of fuel in the tank. But I need to get an opinion on that too as to replace or keep. Seems like there is some rust along the area where the tank vent is. Also in a few other places. https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post877632
Last edited by 70-442-W30; December 6th, 2015 at 12:04 PM.
December 6th, 2015, 01:27 PM
#89
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December 6th, 2015, 09:47 PM
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The gas tanks can be a hard call on whether or not to replace. A lot of it really depends on cosmetics...unless the side that you see once it's installed (underside) was thoroughly undercoated by a dealer back when the car was new or nearly new, it will be "dulled" out looking (at a minimum) and/or may have some corrosion spots, etc.
Then you have the issues of what's inside the tank. You can have it cleaned or clean it yourself. Once you pull the sending unit off you will be able to look inside but you still won't be able to view the insides in much detail and there are plenty of areas you won't be able to see at all.
New tanks are a relative bargain....especially if purchased through RockAuto.com. They have very low prices on the good Spectra Premium brand Canadian-made new tanks AND, just as importantly, their shipping charges are very reasonable. I wouldn't try to save any $ here by purchasing a cheaper tank that's made anywhere else.
Most folks end up replacing them since they're doing an overall restoration and again, the "visuals" provided from a new tank hanging out from the back of the car, with it's fresh/clean steel surface, deliver a lot of bang for the buck.
You can re-use your tank pad but note that it's pretty broken apart at the contact/"pinch" points shown at the top of your pic showing your original pad in that thread. So, I could argue that reusing it sort of defeats part of the purpose of having one....to eliminate contact b/n the tank topside and trunk pan underside.
If you get a new tank then, yes, I'd sure put a new pad on top of it ($25 + shipping...PM me with your zipcode if you are wondering about the total cost..probably $15-$17 additional for Fedex Ground shipping).
Clean the outside of the tank you have and see just how bad any corrosion spots are. Keep an eye out for smaller corrosion spots on the outside of the tank that may actually be small holes that corroded through from the inside of the tank.
If you are trying to preserve an original "survivor" type look with an original tank then see what the underside looks like once cleaned. If you are considering painting the tank I would tell you not to expect it to really look like the finish on a new tank...it'll look like paint....nothing like the new tank "bare" finish.
Then you have the issues of what's inside the tank. You can have it cleaned or clean it yourself. Once you pull the sending unit off you will be able to look inside but you still won't be able to view the insides in much detail and there are plenty of areas you won't be able to see at all.
New tanks are a relative bargain....especially if purchased through RockAuto.com. They have very low prices on the good Spectra Premium brand Canadian-made new tanks AND, just as importantly, their shipping charges are very reasonable. I wouldn't try to save any $ here by purchasing a cheaper tank that's made anywhere else.
Most folks end up replacing them since they're doing an overall restoration and again, the "visuals" provided from a new tank hanging out from the back of the car, with it's fresh/clean steel surface, deliver a lot of bang for the buck.
You can re-use your tank pad but note that it's pretty broken apart at the contact/"pinch" points shown at the top of your pic showing your original pad in that thread. So, I could argue that reusing it sort of defeats part of the purpose of having one....to eliminate contact b/n the tank topside and trunk pan underside.
If you get a new tank then, yes, I'd sure put a new pad on top of it ($25 + shipping...PM me with your zipcode if you are wondering about the total cost..probably $15-$17 additional for Fedex Ground shipping).
Clean the outside of the tank you have and see just how bad any corrosion spots are. Keep an eye out for smaller corrosion spots on the outside of the tank that may actually be small holes that corroded through from the inside of the tank.
If you are trying to preserve an original "survivor" type look with an original tank then see what the underside looks like once cleaned. If you are considering painting the tank I would tell you not to expect it to really look like the finish on a new tank...it'll look like paint....nothing like the new tank "bare" finish.
Last edited by 70Post; December 7th, 2015 at 09:22 AM.
December 7th, 2015, 09:15 AM
#91
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I'm hoping, but not finding. That backing on the carpet is something else. Did you find it underneath the carpet and backing both or did you find it sandwiched in between? I'm thinking under it all, but wanted to double check as there seems to be no sure thing on these cars.
December 7th, 2015, 09:19 AM
#92
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The gas tanks can be a hard call on whether or not to replace. A lot of it really depends on cosmetics...unless the side that you see once it's installed (underside) was thoroughly undercoated by a dealer back when the car was new or nearly new, it will be "dulled" out looking (at a minimum) and/or may have some corrosion spots, etc.
Then you have the issues of what's inside the tank. You can have them cleaned or clean it yourself. Once you pull the sending unit off you will be able to look inside but you still won't be able to view the insides in much detail and there are plenty of areas you won't be able to see at all.
New tanks are a relative bargain....especially if purchased through RockAuto.com. They have very low prices on the good Spectra Premium brand Canadian-made new tanks. I wouldn't try to save any $ here by purchasing a cheaper tank that's made anywhere else.
Most folks end up replacing them since they're doing an overall restoration and again, the "visuals" provided from a new tank hanging out from the back of the car, with it's fresh/clean steel surface, deliver a lot of bang for the buck.
You can re-use your tank pad but note that it's pretty broken apart at the contact/"pinch" points shown at the top of your pic showing your original pad in that thread. So, I could argue that reusing it sort of defeats part of the purpose of having one....to eliminate contact b/n the tank topside and trunk pan underside.
If you get a new tank then, yes, I'd sure put a new pad on top of it ($25 + shipping...PM me with your zipcode if you are wondering about the total cost..probably $15-$17 additional for Fedex Ground shipping).
Clean the outside of the tank you have and see just how bad any corrosion spots are. Keep an eye out for smaller corrosion spots on the outside of the tank that may actually be small holes that corroded through from the inside of the tank.
If you are trying to preserve an original "survivor" type look with an original tank then see what the underside looks like once cleaned. If you are considering painting the tank I would tell you not to expect it to really look like the finish on a new tank...it'll look like paint....nothing like the new tank "bare" finish.
Then you have the issues of what's inside the tank. You can have them cleaned or clean it yourself. Once you pull the sending unit off you will be able to look inside but you still won't be able to view the insides in much detail and there are plenty of areas you won't be able to see at all.
New tanks are a relative bargain....especially if purchased through RockAuto.com. They have very low prices on the good Spectra Premium brand Canadian-made new tanks. I wouldn't try to save any $ here by purchasing a cheaper tank that's made anywhere else.
Most folks end up replacing them since they're doing an overall restoration and again, the "visuals" provided from a new tank hanging out from the back of the car, with it's fresh/clean steel surface, deliver a lot of bang for the buck.
You can re-use your tank pad but note that it's pretty broken apart at the contact/"pinch" points shown at the top of your pic showing your original pad in that thread. So, I could argue that reusing it sort of defeats part of the purpose of having one....to eliminate contact b/n the tank topside and trunk pan underside.
If you get a new tank then, yes, I'd sure put a new pad on top of it ($25 + shipping...PM me with your zipcode if you are wondering about the total cost..probably $15-$17 additional for Fedex Ground shipping).
Clean the outside of the tank you have and see just how bad any corrosion spots are. Keep an eye out for smaller corrosion spots on the outside of the tank that may actually be small holes that corroded through from the inside of the tank.
If you are trying to preserve an original "survivor" type look with an original tank then see what the underside looks like once cleaned. If you are considering painting the tank I would tell you not to expect it to really look like the finish on a new tank...it'll look like paint....nothing like the new tank "bare" finish.
I'm going to consider both sides of what you said. My short term goal is to get this thing on the road again so my wife's grandpap can see it run before he runs into more bad health. So not rushing anything, but I am trying to do what is the quickest without sacrificing the car to anything sloppy. I plan on doing the fuel lines to keep safe there. But I'm still unsure on a new tank. Just depends on the condition like you said. I may not have a choice.
December 7th, 2015, 12:46 PM
#93
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I'm hoping, but not finding. That backing on the carpet is something else. Did you find it underneath the carpet and backing both or did you find it sandwiched in between? I'm thinking under it all, but wanted to double check as there seems to be no sure thing on these cars.
December 7th, 2015, 02:28 PM
#95
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That car is so nice, I think I would strongly consider just doing a real good cleanup of everything. Just work out the small issues (exhaust, brakes, etc.) and enjoy it! It might not look as good as a 100 point OCA Nats show piece, but you have a VERY RARE "survivor" car!......and that, in my opinion, is the real "cool factor"
P.S. Our Ralleye Red coupe is identical as far as the paint application in the trunk area, and it is untouched original condition
P.S. Our Ralleye Red coupe is identical as far as the paint application in the trunk area, and it is untouched original condition
December 7th, 2015, 04:06 PM
#96
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That car is so nice, I think I would strongly consider just doing a real good cleanup of everything. Just work out the small issues (exhaust, brakes, etc.) and enjoy it! It might not look as good as a 100 point OCA Nats show piece, but you have a VERY RARE "survivor" car!......and that, in my opinion, is the real "cool factor"
P.S. Our Ralleye Red coupe is identical as far as the paint application in the trunk area, and it is untouched original condition
P.S. Our Ralleye Red coupe is identical as far as the paint application in the trunk area, and it is untouched original condition
I'm still puzzled why he let it sit in the garage. This guy knew his stuff. Lost his job in the coal mines and went back to school to become ASE certified and he graduated as the valedictorian. He could have fixed this car up with his eyes closed. I'm thinking he knew what the market was on these things and didn't want to fix it due to not being able to resist selling it eventually. At least that's my opinion.
December 7th, 2015, 04:06 PM
#97
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December 7th, 2015, 04:08 PM
#98
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I have double checked and triple checked some areas just to be sure. I guess I could do a double check there. Some of my checking was done late at night on low energy, so I guess I could have missed something. But as others have said, I consider myself fortunate just to have found one. However, I'm disappointed I didn't find a build sheet for sure. But that's just one of those things that you can't dwell on.
December 7th, 2015, 09:15 PM
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WHY are you disappointed for not finding something that shouldn't be there in the first place?
'69442Ragtop didn't say he found a build sheet (I didn't see any other posting by him saying he found a build sheet in his Lansing built 442)....he found two "trim cards" which may be the same thing as we are calling "broadcast cards" (that's what I call the card you found in your car).
I can't say I have ever heard of anyone FINDING a build sheet in a Lansing-built car from this era so don't be disappointed (OK a bunch of folks will pop up with pictures of their Lansing-built cars' build sheets!...never say never). BE HAPPY AS HELL you found the broadcast card instead.....the glass is HALF FULL, not half empty!
OK- maybe you were just fired up in your search for the goodies and just typing figuratively when you said that.
'69442Ragtop didn't say he found a build sheet (I didn't see any other posting by him saying he found a build sheet in his Lansing built 442)....he found two "trim cards" which may be the same thing as we are calling "broadcast cards" (that's what I call the card you found in your car).
I can't say I have ever heard of anyone FINDING a build sheet in a Lansing-built car from this era so don't be disappointed (OK a bunch of folks will pop up with pictures of their Lansing-built cars' build sheets!...never say never). BE HAPPY AS HELL you found the broadcast card instead.....the glass is HALF FULL, not half empty!
OK- maybe you were just fired up in your search for the goodies and just typing figuratively when you said that.
Last edited by 70Post; December 7th, 2015 at 09:18 PM.
December 7th, 2015, 11:22 PM
#100
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Yep, you're right -- what I found were two approximately 8" X 4" IBM punchcards with trim and option codes printed on them. Both were identical, except one had a hog ring fragment through one of its perforations. I have found these in several GM cars over the years (mind you, the '69 was the only one where I got two!) and we always referred to them as "trim cards" to differentiate them from build sheets.
I have yet to find an actual build sheet (or even a portion of one) in any of my cars.
I have yet to find an actual build sheet (or even a portion of one) in any of my cars.
December 8th, 2015, 04:19 AM
#101
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WHY are you disappointed for not finding something that shouldn't be there in the first place?
'69442Ragtop didn't say he found a build sheet (I didn't see any other posting by him saying he found a build sheet in his Lansing built 442)....he found two "trim cards" which may be the same thing as we are calling "broadcast cards" (that's what I call the card you found in your car).
I can't say I have ever heard of anyone FINDING a build sheet in a Lansing-built car from this era so don't be disappointed (OK a bunch of folks will pop up with pictures of their Lansing-built cars' build sheets!...never say never). BE HAPPY AS HELL you found the broadcast card instead.....the glass is HALF FULL, not half empty!
OK- maybe you were just fired up in your search for the goodies and just typing figuratively when you said that.
'69442Ragtop didn't say he found a build sheet (I didn't see any other posting by him saying he found a build sheet in his Lansing built 442)....he found two "trim cards" which may be the same thing as we are calling "broadcast cards" (that's what I call the card you found in your car).
I can't say I have ever heard of anyone FINDING a build sheet in a Lansing-built car from this era so don't be disappointed (OK a bunch of folks will pop up with pictures of their Lansing-built cars' build sheets!...never say never). BE HAPPY AS HELL you found the broadcast card instead.....the glass is HALF FULL, not half empty!
OK- maybe you were just fired up in your search for the goodies and just typing figuratively when you said that.
I'm happy. I'm really happy. That's why I started this particular thread. Keep in mind though that I'm "I paid somewhere between 5 and 6 figures for this car" happy (that clarifies it...I know
), but it wasn't like it was just given to me for free. So I had some expectations and some things I was certainly hoping for. Finding the broadcast card certainly fills those expectations, so I'm happy...don't get me wrong. 
Substitute my wording of "disappointed I didn't find..." to "disappointed I don't have..." and that's more like it. All I was getting at was that it would be nice to have the car's full options list detailed so that I knew what was 100% correct to this car, because it obviously has some "borrowing' issues.
December 8th, 2015, 05:06 PM
#102
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BTW, if anyone has any idea for valuation on this thing since I've been posting pics, I'd be happy to hear it either here in the forum or via PM if you feel more comfortable. The condition of the engine is unknown. When I had the front only jacked up, it was leaking antifreeze (maybe a drop every 10 seconds) from the rear of the engine. Was told it needs a water pump, tune up, new hoses, belts, and heater core. Trans needs something because it was leaking transmission fluid. Thinking seals? But I'm pulling this trans and it won't be part of the car soon. Replacing with either a TH400 that's rebuilt or if I have lottery luck, the original OW or a another OW.
Glass, seats, doors, etc all in near perfect condition. No tears anywhere in upholstery or headliner. Not original wheels. Probably replacing gas tank with new.
Have a number? Let me know. *NOT FOR SALE*
Glass, seats, doors, etc all in near perfect condition. No tears anywhere in upholstery or headliner. Not original wheels. Probably replacing gas tank with new.
Have a number? Let me know. *NOT FOR SALE*
December 9th, 2015, 04:00 PM
#103
344879M363895
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,234
Hey now, I'd figure I'd get at least some valuation numbers via PM. Nothing.
I'm just trying to make sure I have it insured for what it is worth. If there is anyone out there who has an idea, let me know.
I've been working the past few days on our yard and not on the car. I didn't know how much work was involved in getting a pool installed. Of course the sales people are real good to sell you on the product up front, but fail to give you many details on how they will rip your whole yard apart and not take the time to fix it. As they say, if you want things done right...
Anyway, I'm leaving the seats unattached until I get that carpet vacuumed. Figured it will make it easier. Black carpet is my favorite. YES! Not really but that's how it goes.
I did look at the gas tanks at Rock Auto, but the Spectra tanks say something about being for Canadian market vehicles. Not sure what the difference would be. If someone knows, please comment.
I'm just trying to make sure I have it insured for what it is worth. If there is anyone out there who has an idea, let me know.
I've been working the past few days on our yard and not on the car. I didn't know how much work was involved in getting a pool installed. Of course the sales people are real good to sell you on the product up front, but fail to give you many details on how they will rip your whole yard apart and not take the time to fix it. As they say, if you want things done right...
Anyway, I'm leaving the seats unattached until I get that carpet vacuumed. Figured it will make it easier. Black carpet is my favorite. YES! Not really but that's how it goes.
I did look at the gas tanks at Rock Auto, but the Spectra tanks say something about being for Canadian market vehicles. Not sure what the difference would be. If someone knows, please comment.
December 9th, 2015, 04:18 PM
#104
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,142
Hey now, I'd figure I'd get at least some valuation numbers via PM. Nothing.
I'm just trying to make sure I have it insured for what it is worth. If there is anyone out there who has an idea, let me know.
I've been working the past few days on our yard and not on the car. I didn't know how much work was involved in getting a pool installed. Of course the sales people are real good to sell you on the product up front, but fail to give you many details on how they will rip your whole yard apart and not take the time to fix it. As they say, if you want things done right...
Anyway, I'm leaving the seats unattached until I get that carpet vacuumed. Figured it will make it easier. Black carpet is my favorite. YES! Not really but that's how it goes.
I did look at the gas tanks at Rock Auto, but the Spectra tanks say something about being for Canadian market vehicles. Not sure what the difference would be. If someone knows, please comment.
I'm just trying to make sure I have it insured for what it is worth. If there is anyone out there who has an idea, let me know.
I've been working the past few days on our yard and not on the car. I didn't know how much work was involved in getting a pool installed. Of course the sales people are real good to sell you on the product up front, but fail to give you many details on how they will rip your whole yard apart and not take the time to fix it. As they say, if you want things done right...
Anyway, I'm leaving the seats unattached until I get that carpet vacuumed. Figured it will make it easier. Black carpet is my favorite. YES! Not really but that's how it goes.
I did look at the gas tanks at Rock Auto, but the Spectra tanks say something about being for Canadian market vehicles. Not sure what the difference would be. If someone knows, please comment.
The Spectra tanks are "Made in Canada" not made for Canadian cars. There are some differences on how many vent tubes the tanks have so make sure to verify that before you order.
December 9th, 2015, 04:22 PM
#105
344879M363895
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,234
Minimum I would try to insure it for is 30k, maybe more if you find the original trans and get everything documented on the car. I love black carpet because it the easiest to match if you redye the itd
The Spectra tanks are "Made in Canada" not made for Canadian cars. There are some differences on how many vent tubes the tanks have so make sure to verify that before you order.
The Spectra tanks are "Made in Canada" not made for Canadian cars. There are some differences on how many vent tubes the tanks have so make sure to verify that before you order.
How would I go about documenting the car? I'm not sure what that process entails. I thought with a title and broadcast card and I'd be in good shape. I will have to read up on the process. edit: BTW, thanks for the insurance valuation.
Last edited by 70-442-W30; December 9th, 2015 at 04:24 PM. Reason: BTW
December 9th, 2015, 05:03 PM
#106
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 308
December 9th, 2015, 05:27 PM
#107
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,142
Ok, I should have elaborated more about what I meant by document. You now have proof it is a real W-30 but you need to verify part numbers and date codes with clear pics on the carb, distributor, water pump, alternator, starter, radiator, the rear axle, good clear pics of the "F" on the heads along with casting number and date codes, clear pics of the VIN derivative gang stamp on the block. All of this verifies not only that the correct part numbers are there but also that all the date codes are correct for your car and therefore are more than likely the parts that your car was born with.
December 9th, 2015, 05:37 PM
#109
Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Bartlesville, Oklahoma
Posts: 1,142
December 10th, 2015, 03:52 AM
#111
344879M363895
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,234
Ok, I should have elaborated more about what I meant by document. You now have proof it is a real W-30 but you need to verify part numbers and date codes with clear pics on the carb, distributor, water pump, alternator, starter, radiator, the rear axle, good clear pics of the "F" on the heads along with casting number and date codes, clear pics of the VIN derivative gang stamp on the block. All of this verifies not only that the correct part numbers are there but also that all the date codes are correct for your car and therefore are more than likely the parts that your car was born with.
December 10th, 2015, 03:58 AM
#112
344879M363895
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Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,234
December 10th, 2015, 09:08 AM
#113
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,394
December 11th, 2015, 11:26 AM
#116
Rocket Renegade!
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Vancouver Island
Posts: 4,400
My car has a Spectra tank and I've been very happy with it -- good fit, no problems, looks great. The car was a Lansing build, but originally sold in Calgary, however I can't imagine how that would have made any difference.
December 11th, 2015, 12:27 PM
#117
344879M363895
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 2,234
Yes, but are some of your best friends Canadian?
My car has a Spectra tank and I've been very happy with it -- good fit, no problems, looks great. The car was a Lansing build, but originally sold in Calgary, however I can't imagine how that would have made any difference.
My car has a Spectra tank and I've been very happy with it -- good fit, no problems, looks great. The car was a Lansing build, but originally sold in Calgary, however I can't imagine how that would have made any difference.
I'm thinking of just going with the Spectra. Have to empty the original tank this weekend, but thinking I'm gonna find something not so good.
December 11th, 2015, 03:23 PM
#118
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Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: West Michigan
Posts: 1,587
You might be surprised. When I dropped my tank, despite the small amount of surface rust on the outside needing attention, the inside was immaculate. Not bad for 40 years old!
December 14th, 2015, 09:50 AM
#119
344879M363895
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Posts: 2,234
Does anyone know if this covers removal and install of the transmission into the car? I don't plan on doing a rebuild, just install of a rebuilt unit. The last transmission I did, I was lucky as I had a factory CD listing socket sizes, torque specs, and step by step instructions. It was a Ford Explorer though and I don't know if this covers all that I am needing or if anything like that even exists. I'm the kind that likes to follow detailed directions vs just tearing into things.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ATSG-Chevy-G...-/171199066811
December 14th, 2015, 10:47 AM
#120
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Delta BC Canada
Posts: 3,688
This
That car is so nice, I think I would strongly consider just doing a real good cleanup of everything. Just work out the small issues (exhaust, brakes, etc.) and enjoy it! It might not look as good as a 100 point OCA Nats show piece, but you have a VERY RARE "survivor" car!......and that, in my opinion, is the real "cool factor"
P.S. Our Ralleye Red coupe is identical as far as the paint application in the trunk area, and it is untouched original condition
P.S. Our Ralleye Red coupe is identical as far as the paint application in the trunk area, and it is untouched original condition
