1975 Cutlass Supreme
May 12th, 2012, 09:42 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30
1975 Cutlass Supreme
I have this beautiful 1975 Cutlass Supreme that’s been sitting for a year. I finally couldn’t stand it anymore and took it to the shop. Now it’s running again, and I’m thinking about having work done to it. It's served me well, but I'd like to get it in better condition. The thing is, I have no idea where to start. Off the top of my head, the problems I am aware of are…
the heater/defroster doesn’t work
there’s no backlight on the dashboard and the gas gauge isn’t accurate
only some of the exterior lights work
damage to the body (including some rust in the trunk – I have a replacement trunk lid, but haven’t put it on yet)
one of the door’s is pretty much shot inside, which make the window work very temperamentally (they’re power windows)
if I remember correctly it also leaks around that same window
interior work (the door panels are awful, the seats need to be reupholstered if not replaced, the glove compartment doesn’t close, the seatbelts are frayed, it’s in desperate need of a deep cleaning)
there are all kinds of unused wires hanging from under the passenger side dash
That’s all I can think of at the moment. It also runs fairly rough, but then again I’ve only driven it home from the shop so far.
So from the limited information I’ve given, if this was your car, and you decided to put some work into it, where would you start?
I guess I’m worried that the things I just listed are fairly superficial and that there’s something more substantial that I should be doing before I get to those. Thanks for your help. It is much appreciated.
the heater/defroster doesn’t work
there’s no backlight on the dashboard and the gas gauge isn’t accurate
only some of the exterior lights work
damage to the body (including some rust in the trunk – I have a replacement trunk lid, but haven’t put it on yet)
one of the door’s is pretty much shot inside, which make the window work very temperamentally (they’re power windows)
if I remember correctly it also leaks around that same window
interior work (the door panels are awful, the seats need to be reupholstered if not replaced, the glove compartment doesn’t close, the seatbelts are frayed, it’s in desperate need of a deep cleaning)
there are all kinds of unused wires hanging from under the passenger side dash
That’s all I can think of at the moment. It also runs fairly rough, but then again I’ve only driven it home from the shop so far.
So from the limited information I’ve given, if this was your car, and you decided to put some work into it, where would you start?
I guess I’m worried that the things I just listed are fairly superficial and that there’s something more substantial that I should be doing before I get to those. Thanks for your help. It is much appreciated.
May 12th, 2012, 12:32 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 310
First, let me thank you for saving another rocket!
I think you're on the right track with getting the drive train checked and operational. Get the car running safe and sound if you're planning on driving it on a regular basis.
What to do next all depends on what your intentions are for the car. Will this be a fixer upper, daily driver, factory original restoration, show car?
Some of the issues you listed are common for a car that has been sitting for an extended amount of time and they can be repaired and/or replaced. It's going to take some work and patience but it can be done.
Post more info and some photos if possible. Lets get a better idea and a look at what you're up against.
I think you're on the right track with getting the drive train checked and operational. Get the car running safe and sound if you're planning on driving it on a regular basis.
What to do next all depends on what your intentions are for the car. Will this be a fixer upper, daily driver, factory original restoration, show car?
Some of the issues you listed are common for a car that has been sitting for an extended amount of time and they can be repaired and/or replaced. It's going to take some work and patience but it can be done.
Post more info and some photos if possible. Lets get a better idea and a look at what you're up against.
May 13th, 2012, 10:59 AM
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30
First, let me thank you for saving another rocket!
I think you're on the right track with getting the drive train checked and operational. Get the car running safe and sound if you're planning on driving it on a regular basis.
What to do next all depends on what your intentions are for the car. Will this be a fixer upper, daily driver, factory original restoration, show car?
Some of the issues you listed are common for a car that has been sitting for an extended amount of time and they can be repaired and/or replaced. It's going to take some work and patience but it can be done.
Post more info and some photos if possible. Lets get a better idea and a look at what you're up against.
I think you're on the right track with getting the drive train checked and operational. Get the car running safe and sound if you're planning on driving it on a regular basis.
What to do next all depends on what your intentions are for the car. Will this be a fixer upper, daily driver, factory original restoration, show car?
Some of the issues you listed are common for a car that has been sitting for an extended amount of time and they can be repaired and/or replaced. It's going to take some work and patience but it can be done.
Post more info and some photos if possible. Lets get a better idea and a look at what you're up against.
When you say that I should have the drivetrain checked, what exactly does that entail? Thanks.
May 13th, 2012, 11:39 AM
#4
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Drivetrain check is:
Tranny - check for proper fluid level - hot (smell & color), modulator, leaks, shifting pattern, vacuum lines to trans.
Driveshaft - universal joint
Differential - check fluid. At this age - replace. That will also take care of the pumpkin gasket. If the car has posi make sure you add the proper additive to the gear oil.
I'd also check the suspension for wear/tear and have a good look at:
Fuel system - any rubber lines and filters should be replaced
Compression test - will tell you a fair bit about the health of the engine
Coolant system - rad (leaks) replace hoses/thermostat, change coolant, check fan clutch.
Brake system - Front brake pad/rotors, brake lines rear drums/shoes. Change out brake fluid, bleed brakes. Check master cylinder and brake booster for effectiveness.
Steering system - power steering fluid flush if possible, check/change pressure hose/return hose, rag joint
Exhaust - check for leaks throughout - replace as needed.
Body integrity - rust was common on lower areas of sheetmetal and rockers. Also check under carpet and in trunk for rust through.
Suspension - check for excessive bounce; indicates worn shocks. Ride height check to check spring integrity.
Check all belts for cracking or fatigue, ensure they are properly tensioned too.
Lights, horn, mirrors and glass in good repair
The joys of owning an older car also means ensuring it's safe on the road and fun to drive.
May 13th, 2012, 03:13 PM
#5
Registered Loser
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 132
oohhh
Hi,
Beautiful color combination it looks like someone installed a Chevy small block & had a lot of parts left over! I would focus all your attention under the hood right now. Just from the two pictures on your profile...it looks like someone did a very half-assed job swapping out the drivetrain. If it was YOU, well...sorry 'bout that!
If you want this thing to be reliable it can be done but it all depends upon what kind shape that engine is in. You should (or have someone else) do a compression test on it if it's running rough. Your engine may have a flat lobe on the cam, a burned valve, worn timing chain, etc.. You need to know (now) whether the engine is going to need internal work. Looking at the chrome junk, K/N filter, & lack of important stuff like a fan shroud, heater, etc. may be indicative of a very abused engine. Do you know what the engine is or what it came out of? It could be a 305, 350, or even a 400 small-block.
If the engine is tired or is a 305, you will not want to waste any money on it. Toss it & find a decent Olds 350 & matching transmission. You may not have to swap transmissions if the trans that's in your car now has both the Chevy AND Olds bellhousing bolt pattern. If you plan on keeping this car awhile I would definitely plan on eventually repowering it with an Oldsmobile engine.
But if the current engine does appear to be solid you can work with it. Small block Chevies can be very reliable & pretty much everybody knows how to work on them. So if you want to keep the engine that's in it:
1. Check the fuel line going from the pump to the carb. Either replace it with a steel line (easy to find at junkyards -- ANY 4-barrel pickup or GM car with a 305 or 350 (Chevy) will have one)....or make darn sure the hose is perfect & secure. One little pinhole and your car will burn to a crisp, courtesy of those headers.
2. Find a fan shround! -- you may have overheating issues & it'll also keep the radiator hoses out of the fan.
3. Have fun changing header gaskets & spark plug wires often or ditch the headers & get regular exhaust manifolds. They are super cheap & easy to find at junkyards -- get the ones that "go below" the spark plugs, not the "log" ones that go "over". You may be screwed though depending upon where the dipstick is on that particular engine...newer SBCs will have issues.
4. If you want any heat/defrost action, find the "box" on the passenger's side firewall. I'm thinking pretty much any '73 to '77 midsized GM car will work.
There's a start. The outside lights could be pretty much anything...
Have fun.
Beautiful color combination it looks like someone installed a Chevy small block & had a lot of parts left over! I would focus all your attention under the hood right now. Just from the two pictures on your profile...it looks like someone did a very half-assed job swapping out the drivetrain. If it was YOU, well...sorry 'bout that!
If you want this thing to be reliable it can be done but it all depends upon what kind shape that engine is in. You should (or have someone else) do a compression test on it if it's running rough. Your engine may have a flat lobe on the cam, a burned valve, worn timing chain, etc.. You need to know (now) whether the engine is going to need internal work. Looking at the chrome junk, K/N filter, & lack of important stuff like a fan shroud, heater, etc. may be indicative of a very abused engine. Do you know what the engine is or what it came out of? It could be a 305, 350, or even a 400 small-block.
If the engine is tired or is a 305, you will not want to waste any money on it. Toss it & find a decent Olds 350 & matching transmission. You may not have to swap transmissions if the trans that's in your car now has both the Chevy AND Olds bellhousing bolt pattern. If you plan on keeping this car awhile I would definitely plan on eventually repowering it with an Oldsmobile engine.
But if the current engine does appear to be solid you can work with it. Small block Chevies can be very reliable & pretty much everybody knows how to work on them. So if you want to keep the engine that's in it:
1. Check the fuel line going from the pump to the carb. Either replace it with a steel line (easy to find at junkyards -- ANY 4-barrel pickup or GM car with a 305 or 350 (Chevy) will have one)....or make darn sure the hose is perfect & secure. One little pinhole and your car will burn to a crisp, courtesy of those headers.
2. Find a fan shround! -- you may have overheating issues & it'll also keep the radiator hoses out of the fan.
3. Have fun changing header gaskets & spark plug wires often or ditch the headers & get regular exhaust manifolds. They are super cheap & easy to find at junkyards -- get the ones that "go below" the spark plugs, not the "log" ones that go "over". You may be screwed though depending upon where the dipstick is on that particular engine...newer SBCs will have issues.
4. If you want any heat/defrost action, find the "box" on the passenger's side firewall. I'm thinking pretty much any '73 to '77 midsized GM car will work.
There's a start. The outside lights could be pretty much anything...
Have fun.
May 13th, 2012, 05:54 PM
#6
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,515
After reading your posts, I have a couple of questions?
Are you mechanically inclined?
Do you have the internal fortitude to see a project thru?
Whats your budget?
You got some real work ahead of you!
Are you mechanically inclined?
Do you have the internal fortitude to see a project thru?
Whats your budget?
You got some real work ahead of you!
May 13th, 2012, 06:34 PM
#7
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
May 14th, 2012, 08:45 AM
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
After some reflection, I couldn't help but wonder if you were checking to see if this wasn't going to turn out like the 71 chugging Cutlass thread. I'm pretty sure Eric will be watching to see what happens here too.
May 14th, 2012, 08:54 AM
#10
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 310
Thanks for posting the photos.
As far as your "starting points(s)" and my drive train statement, everyone summed things up quite well.
With your goal of making this your primary/daily driver, you definitely want to make sure the engine, trans, steering, brakes, and suspension components are up to par.
We can talk AC/Heater box when you get to that point.
Take your time, stay focused, and think logically. Don't let the excitement of getting the car on the road overpower the REALITY of what you're wanting to achieve with your project. I must admit, it's easier said than done in some instances.
As far as your "starting points(s)" and my drive train statement, everyone summed things up quite well.
With your goal of making this your primary/daily driver, you definitely want to make sure the engine, trans, steering, brakes, and suspension components are up to par.
We can talk AC/Heater box when you get to that point.
Take your time, stay focused, and think logically. Don't let the excitement of getting the car on the road overpower the REALITY of what you're wanting to achieve with your project. I must admit, it's easier said than done in some instances.
May 14th, 2012, 12:49 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30
Hi,
Beautiful color combination it looks like someone installed a Chevy small block & had a lot of parts left over! I would focus all your attention under the hood right now. Just from the two pictures on your profile...it looks like someone did a very half-assed job swapping out the drivetrain. If it was YOU, well...sorry 'bout that!
If you want this thing to be reliable it can be done but it all depends upon what kind shape that engine is in. You should (or have someone else) do a compression test on it if it's running rough. Your engine may have a flat lobe on the cam, a burned valve, worn timing chain, etc.. You need to know (now) whether the engine is going to need internal work. Looking at the chrome junk, K/N filter, & lack of important stuff like a fan shroud, heater, etc. may be indicative of a very abused engine. Do you know what the engine is or what it came out of? It could be a 305, 350, or even a 400 small-block.
If the engine is tired or is a 305, you will not want to waste any money on it. Toss it & find a decent Olds 350 & matching transmission. You may not have to swap transmissions if the trans that's in your car now has both the Chevy AND Olds bellhousing bolt pattern. If you plan on keeping this car awhile I would definitely plan on eventually repowering it with an Oldsmobile engine.
But if the current engine does appear to be solid you can work with it. Small block Chevies can be very reliable & pretty much everybody knows how to work on them. So if you want to keep the engine that's in it:
1. Check the fuel line going from the pump to the carb. Either replace it with a steel line (easy to find at junkyards -- ANY 4-barrel pickup or GM car with a 305 or 350 (Chevy) will have one)....or make darn sure the hose is perfect & secure. One little pinhole and your car will burn to a crisp, courtesy of those headers.
2. Find a fan shround! -- you may have overheating issues & it'll also keep the radiator hoses out of the fan.
3. Have fun changing header gaskets & spark plug wires often or ditch the headers & get regular exhaust manifolds. They are super cheap & easy to find at junkyards -- get the ones that "go below" the spark plugs, not the "log" ones that go "over". You may be screwed though depending upon where the dipstick is on that particular engine...newer SBCs will have issues.
4. If you want any heat/defrost action, find the "box" on the passenger's side firewall. I'm thinking pretty much any '73 to '77 midsized GM car will work.
There's a start. The outside lights could be pretty much anything...
Have fun.
Beautiful color combination it looks like someone installed a Chevy small block & had a lot of parts left over! I would focus all your attention under the hood right now. Just from the two pictures on your profile...it looks like someone did a very half-assed job swapping out the drivetrain. If it was YOU, well...sorry 'bout that!
If you want this thing to be reliable it can be done but it all depends upon what kind shape that engine is in. You should (or have someone else) do a compression test on it if it's running rough. Your engine may have a flat lobe on the cam, a burned valve, worn timing chain, etc.. You need to know (now) whether the engine is going to need internal work. Looking at the chrome junk, K/N filter, & lack of important stuff like a fan shroud, heater, etc. may be indicative of a very abused engine. Do you know what the engine is or what it came out of? It could be a 305, 350, or even a 400 small-block.
If the engine is tired or is a 305, you will not want to waste any money on it. Toss it & find a decent Olds 350 & matching transmission. You may not have to swap transmissions if the trans that's in your car now has both the Chevy AND Olds bellhousing bolt pattern. If you plan on keeping this car awhile I would definitely plan on eventually repowering it with an Oldsmobile engine.
But if the current engine does appear to be solid you can work with it. Small block Chevies can be very reliable & pretty much everybody knows how to work on them. So if you want to keep the engine that's in it:
1. Check the fuel line going from the pump to the carb. Either replace it with a steel line (easy to find at junkyards -- ANY 4-barrel pickup or GM car with a 305 or 350 (Chevy) will have one)....or make darn sure the hose is perfect & secure. One little pinhole and your car will burn to a crisp, courtesy of those headers.
2. Find a fan shround! -- you may have overheating issues & it'll also keep the radiator hoses out of the fan.
3. Have fun changing header gaskets & spark plug wires often or ditch the headers & get regular exhaust manifolds. They are super cheap & easy to find at junkyards -- get the ones that "go below" the spark plugs, not the "log" ones that go "over". You may be screwed though depending upon where the dipstick is on that particular engine...newer SBCs will have issues.
4. If you want any heat/defrost action, find the "box" on the passenger's side firewall. I'm thinking pretty much any '73 to '77 midsized GM car will work.
There's a start. The outside lights could be pretty much anything...
Have fun.
My brother's friend got it from his grandfather and then took it through some auto program at a technical school, so he was basically learning on this car. I'm not sure what the engine came from. I had the transmission replaced within the last couple years, but it probably wasn't a new one. I can't remember, and the receipt's out in the car..
I had dreams to work on it myself, but I've realized it'll never get done that way. I'm not mechanically inclined, so it seems overwhelming to me. As far as budget, this is going to be a slow improvement! One thing at a time, but the idea really is to get this car working well and fully intend to see it through.
May 14th, 2012, 02:23 PM
#14
delete
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 2,807
If the most used tool in your tool box is your check book you will go broke fast. An old car is like a house. If you pay for every little thing you'll go broke fast. Start with some small jobs you think you can handle to get your feet wet and go from there.
May 14th, 2012, 02:27 PM
#15
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
May 14th, 2012, 02:44 PM
#16
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,515
Ok Gardizzle, we all had to start somewhere and something. Believe it or not car mechanics is not rocket science. It is actually very easy and the internet (btw which was not around when we started) is a wealth of information.
Do you have any tools? Do you have garage? Do you have a chassis manual or some other reference book for your car and your engine? Are you married and is she on board? And most importantly whats your budget and or how much can you spend on project by project basis?
Then we need to prioritize all your needs, then come wants. Safety and reliability come first.
Do you have any tools? Do you have garage? Do you have a chassis manual or some other reference book for your car and your engine? Are you married and is she on board? And most importantly whats your budget and or how much can you spend on project by project basis?
Then we need to prioritize all your needs, then come wants. Safety and reliability come first.
May 14th, 2012, 05:51 PM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 30
Ok Gardizzle, we all had to start somewhere and something. Believe it or not car mechanics is not rocket science. It is actually very easy and the internet (btw which was not around when we started) is a wealth of information.
Do you have any tools? Do you have garage? Do you have a chassis manual or some other reference book for your car and your engine? Are you married and is she on board? And most importantly whats your budget and or how much can you spend on project by project basis?
Then we need to prioritize all your needs, then come wants. Safety and reliability come first.
Do you have any tools? Do you have garage? Do you have a chassis manual or some other reference book for your car and your engine? Are you married and is she on board? And most importantly whats your budget and or how much can you spend on project by project basis?
Then we need to prioritize all your needs, then come wants. Safety and reliability come first.
I have access to my mom's garage and whatever old tools are there, but that stuff is just crap by now. It was my dad's, and he hasn't lived there in almost ten years. I was going to buy a manual until I felt the whole thing was too overwhelming for me, someone without any mechanical inclination or real tools, to do myself.
May 16th, 2012, 07:18 AM
#19
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,515
Most of us spend more than the car is probably worth. That's why it's called a hobby!
Since you drove the car for 3 years, what issues forced you to park it?
I've found that with a project like yours, I would get the safety and driveabilty issues tackled first. Then you can work on it, and drive it for a while until the next project. Repeat until finished!
IMHO, I would enroll in a night time vocational mechanics class in your area and use your car as the guinea pig for your class. They have the tools, the knowhow, and the place to learn the standard operational aspects and repairs for cars. This way all you have to supply are the parts and some supplies.
Also on the internet there are step by step instructions for almost any repair and multiple videos. Not to mention many posts on here that people have documented their successes and failures with reference to almost any project you can take on.
As was mentioned above, if the only tool is your checkbook, you are in deep crap unless your independantly wealthy.
May 16th, 2012, 08:05 AM
#20
Registered Loser
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 132
If you drove the car for three years & nothing went "blam" you may be okay. As for your father's tools...if they are old & even crappy, they are something 
and the nice part is that you don't really need a whole lot when you're working on a seventies-era car like this. If your father ever worked on cars he might have a timing light or compression tester...(I just bought a new one from Sears two weeks ago & it was around $70 -- not bad!).
You write pretty well, are going to grad school so you've obviously got it going on upstairs -- this car, in my opinion, would be a great way to learn some new skills and like the previous poster said, it's not rocket science.
You seem to really like this car & already understand that the goal isn't to make money off of it so I urge you not to give up on it. Unless the rust eats the body away, it will never depreciate. If you keep the body covered, it will eventually appreciate.
I never had any formal training (I wish I did though) but have "mistaked" my way to where I'm not afraid of tearing into anything on these cars. Yeah, I've taken a hit on a lot of cars but in retrospect, I learned a lot, had fun, made some new friends.
You have found a real peach of a forum here by the way. There are a few jerks but most will be more than glad to help you bring this car back. Understand you'll need a thick skin from the Chevy engine haters but I think they'll come around when they realize YOU didn't yank the Oldsmoengine.
If you ask specific questions & post pictures of things you need help with, people will see that you are trying to save an Olds & help.
and the nice part is that you don't really need a whole lot when you're working on a seventies-era car like this. If your father ever worked on cars he might have a timing light or compression tester...(I just bought a new one from Sears two weeks ago & it was around $70 -- not bad!).You write pretty well, are going to grad school so you've obviously got it going on upstairs -- this car, in my opinion, would be a great way to learn some new skills and like the previous poster said, it's not rocket science.
You seem to really like this car & already understand that the goal isn't to make money off of it so I urge you not to give up on it. Unless the rust eats the body away, it will never depreciate. If you keep the body covered, it will eventually appreciate.
I never had any formal training (I wish I did though) but have "mistaked" my way to where I'm not afraid of tearing into anything on these cars. Yeah, I've taken a hit on a lot of cars but in retrospect, I learned a lot, had fun, made some new friends.
You have found a real peach of a forum here by the way. There are a few jerks but most will be more than glad to help you bring this car back. Understand you'll need a thick skin from the Chevy engine haters but I think they'll come around when they realize YOU didn't yank the Oldsmoengine.
If you ask specific questions & post pictures of things you need help with, people will see that you are trying to save an Olds & help.
May 16th, 2012, 11:40 AM
#21
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Hey Gardizzle,
Just a thought: Add your location under your user name. Then maybe some folks on this site who may be close to you can possibly drop by to help occasionally? Make the most of this forum - sometimes posting is the only way to go, but if there's another option to explore??? Worth a shot.
Just a thought: Add your location under your user name. Then maybe some folks on this site who may be close to you can possibly drop by to help occasionally? Make the most of this forum - sometimes posting is the only way to go, but if there's another option to explore??? Worth a shot.
May 16th, 2012, 09:12 PM
#22
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Just remembered. Take a look at the Classic Oldsmobile Map. It shows where some of us other Olds folks are and there may be some close to you. You can put yourself on too
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oldsmobile+map Might take a few moments to open. Zoom out or in to see who's who. If you put your cursor on one of the balloons it will tell you their user name and whatever personal info they wish to provide.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oldsmobile+map Might take a few moments to open. Zoom out or in to see who's who. If you put your cursor on one of the balloons it will tell you their user name and whatever personal info they wish to provide.
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