Reprogram 93 utlass keyless remotes
#1
Reprogram 93 utlass keyless remotes
How do I reprogram my keyless remote controls for my 1993 Olds cutlass convertible. The car had after market remotes which I removed. I can manually operate my car doors and trunk from inside the car. I purchased 2 olds remotes from the junk yard, and want to program them--------Any ideas?????? thx Jim
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
programming help
How do I reprogram my keyless remote controls for my 1993 Olds cutlass convertible. The car had after market remotes which I removed. I can manually operate my car doors and trunk from inside the car. I purchased 2 olds remotes from the junk yard, and want to program them--------Any ideas?????? thx Jim
Try this:
1995 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight
Keyless Entry
Programming Instructions
Programming Instructions
1. Insert keys in ignition and leave in the OFF position.
2. Locate the OBDII Port under drivers side dashboard.
(Note port is wider at top) Your OBDII Port will not have numbers, use this for reference.
3. Make sure there are metal contact pins in terminals 8 and 4. Connect 8 and 4 with a suitable jumper wire (leave the jumper wire connected throughout the programming procedure - I recommend a set of alligator clips connected to a wire. A paper clip will do the trick but you have to make sure you don't arc the contacts - that will probably make the fuse blow). Make sure you know which terminals are 8 and 4. The vehicle will respond by locking then unlocking the doors to signify entering of programming mode.
4. Close Doors
5. Turn ignition to the ON position (as far as you can go without cranking the engine). Doors will lock.
6. Press and hold both the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons together on the first transmitter to be programmed. Up to about 30 seconds, the vehicle will respond by locking then unlocking the doors. Release the buttons on the transmitter.
7. Within one minute, repeat the previous step on the remaining transmitter (if any – including any existing remotes).
8. Remove jumper wire applied to the OBDII Port.
The worst you can do is blow the fuse for the pdl - easy fix. It took me less than 10 minutes to program 2 remotes using these directions. They work.
If you have trouble, you might try this set alternate set of instructions that I used for reprogramming 2 new remotes for my wifes 96 Saturn.
(1) OBTAIN ALL REMOTE TRANSMITTERS.
(2) ACCESS DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC) (LOCATED UNDER STEERING COLUMN).
(3) INSERT KEY INTO THE IGNITION SWITCH.
(4) ENSURE IGNITION SWITCH SWITCHED OFF.
(5) JUMP DATA LINK CONNECTOR (DLC) TERMINALS 4 & 8.
(6) DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK.
(7) TAILGATE WILL UNLOCK.
NOTE: TO PROGRAM EACH REMOTE TRANSMITTER TO SOUND THE HORN WHEN LOCKING THE VEHICLE: ENSURE IGNITION SWITCHED OFF WHILE PROGRAMMING EACH REMOTE TRANSMITTER.
(8) WITHIN 1 MINUTE:
a) PRESS LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY ON THE FIRST REMOTE TRANSMITTER FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 SECONDS.
b) DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK.
c) TAILGATE WILL UNLATCH.
NOTE: IF DOOR/TAILGATE LOCKS DO NOT OPERATE PRESS THE BUTTONS AGAIN ENSURING THAT THEY ARE PRESSED DOWN FIRMLY.
(9) WITHIN 1 MINUTE:
a) PRESS LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY ON THE SECOND REMOTE TRANSMITTER FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 SECONDS.
b) DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK.
c) TAILGATE WILL UNLATCH.
(10) WITHIN 1 MINUTE:
a) PRESS LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY ON THE THIRD REMOTE TRANSMITTER FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 SECONDS.
b) DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK.
c) TAILGATE WILL UNLATCH.
(11) WITHIN 1 MINUTE:
a) PRESS LOCK AND UNLOCK BUTTONS SIMULTANEOUSLY ON THE FOURTH REMOTE TRANSMITTER FOR APPROXIMATELY 8 SECONDS.
b) DOORS WILL LOCK AND UNLOCK.
c) TAILGATE WILL UNLATCH.
(12) REMOVE JUMPER WIRE.
NOTE: A MAXIMUM OF 4 REMOTE TRANSMITTERS CAN BE PROGRAMMED.
Hope one of these works for you.
#3
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
OBD1 98 Olds remote programming
OK, I just searched the web for your 93 remote instructions. The DLC is different in 93, so here are some instructions that may be of more use to you.
DATA LINK CONNECTOR
1. Locate the Data Link Connector (DLC) underneath the driver's side dashboard.
Use the figure as a map for your DL ( They are not lettered on your vehicle.)
The view is looking straight into the cavities of the DLC.
2. Connect cavity G with cavity A using a fused jumper wire. Your vehicle will respond by locking and unlocking the door locks within 2 seconds.
3. Press any button 3 times in successtion on first remote to be programmed. Locks will lock and unlock verifying remote was programmed.
4. Press any button 3 times in succession on second remote to be programmed if applicable. Locks will lock and unlock to verify remote was programmed.
5. Remove jumper wire and test remote(s)
DATA LINK CONNECTOR
1. Locate the Data Link Connector (DLC) underneath the driver's side dashboard.
Use the figure as a map for your DL ( They are not lettered on your vehicle.)
The view is looking straight into the cavities of the DLC.
2. Connect cavity G with cavity A using a fused jumper wire. Your vehicle will respond by locking and unlocking the door locks within 2 seconds.
3. Press any button 3 times in successtion on first remote to be programmed. Locks will lock and unlock verifying remote was programmed.
4. Press any button 3 times in succession on second remote to be programmed if applicable. Locks will lock and unlock to verify remote was programmed.
5. Remove jumper wire and test remote(s)
#4
Allan you da man!
Those are some awsome instructions.
FWIW, as a jumper you can just use a paper clip. I had a 93 Buick LeSaber and used a paper clip many times to read codes and do electric maintenance.
Those are some awsome instructions.
FWIW, as a jumper you can just use a paper clip. I had a 93 Buick LeSaber and used a paper clip many times to read codes and do electric maintenance.
#6
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Yup, I did that the first time with my wife's car. I used a large paper clip, but the darn thing "sparked" when it was being inserted into the 8 terminal. (Already had the 4 inserted). Blew the fuse. (Hocus pick, I looked everywhere, and I mean everywhere for the stupid thing and couldn't find it). Took it to Saturn (never again) who ONLY charged 10.00 for the fuse and 40.00 for labor!!!! Talked to the mechanic who worked on the car. He showed me where the fuse was - buried under the back side of the console where you wouldn't look for it. For some reason he was also looking under the hood, and never closed it - I found out driving across the freeway and it looked too high. Good thing it has a secondary latch. I whipped out my cell and called service. Didn't even get an apology from the service manager. Now that's performance huh? Larry Moe and Curly could be working there.....
Anyway, after that I always use a set of alligator clips on a 8 inch wire. Works great. Unlike a paper clip that can move, the alligator clip holds pretty tight.
#7
Interesting story. Good thing your hood had a secondary latch.
There is also a tool called a GM Type I code key. I got one years ago at a local auto parts store. It is just a metal key with two prongs that can be used to short the A and B terminals on a GM Type I computer to flash codes through the check engine light. I have it on my spare key ring in the dresser.
There is also a tool called a GM Type I code key. I got one years ago at a local auto parts store. It is just a metal key with two prongs that can be used to short the A and B terminals on a GM Type I computer to flash codes through the check engine light. I have it on my spare key ring in the dresser.
#8
1995 Cutlass Convertible remote question
I have purchsed two used remotes for my 1995 Cutlass convertible and both work on the doors but neither work on the trunk. My husband programed them and I have had the auto shop try. They tested the remotes and said they do not work on the trunk; no one can program or fix them. They say the trunk mechanism is able to get the juice and should be working properly to open. But the remotes will not send the signal. Are we missing something?
The trunk button in the glove box does not work either. Coincidence? Something else? Wiring? Way over my head and confusing.
Thanks,
Betsybugs
Cutlass convertible owner since 1974...except when they stopped making them and I had to get a Le Baron.
The trunk button in the glove box does not work either. Coincidence? Something else? Wiring? Way over my head and confusing.
Thanks,
Betsybugs
Cutlass convertible owner since 1974...except when they stopped making them and I had to get a Le Baron.
#9
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Hi, Betsybugs and welcome to C.O.
If there's no power to the trunk solenoid, it's not the remote that is the problem. When they are programmed they don't 'isolate' a circuit because it's defective. Fix the power to the trunk and the remote will work fine.
Have your husband check the fuse for the PT and see if it's blown.
Now go over to the newbie section and introduce yourself to the C.O. members.
If there's no power to the trunk solenoid, it's not the remote that is the problem. When they are programmed they don't 'isolate' a circuit because it's defective. Fix the power to the trunk and the remote will work fine.
Have your husband check the fuse for the PT and see if it's blown.
Now go over to the newbie section and introduce yourself to the C.O. members.
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