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Originally Posted by Moofinator
Anyone think it might just be the condenser? I don't know if they just go out all of a sudden ........ sometimes coils just go all at once, or at least is possible ........
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It's possible. It's possible. It's possible. Rarely. With few exceptions, original coils have outlasted the cars they came in.
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Originally Posted by ”Alrandmae”
Sounds like the shop is guessing ........
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And at the customers expense. Not a shop I would recommend to anyone.
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........ including points, plugs, cap, rotor, condenser, wires, etc. So those parts are not going to be the problem ........
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Troubleshooting 101: Start the process at the beginning. Do not assume a part is good, just because it is a new replacement.
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........ It might be just that the points drifted out of spec ........
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Very possible. Usually happens when the cam/rubbing block was not properly lubricated.
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........ so I would not replace them unless it is confirmed that they are bad ........
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Should be a given, but lot's of beer money gets wasted on unneeded replacement parts.
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........ There are specific tests to isolate all ignition problems ........
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Yes. In this case, they are simple tests:
Visually inspect the coil for signs of swelling, leakage. Does the rotor turn, and do the points open and close when the engine is cranked?
Using a test light or VOM, verify there is power at the + side of the coil when the ignition switch is on, then at the – side when the points are closed. If so, pull the coil wire from the dist cap, hold it about ¼" from the closest ground, and have someone crank the engine. If you get a good spark, the points and condenser are good.
If not, adjust the points to .016" gap, or 30° dwell and try it again. If spark is still weak, change the points and condenser.
If the cap and and rotor check out visually, check the secondary (plug) wires for the same ¼" arc at the plugs.
Norm